My new chef, Tony Esnault, teaches us how to preserve Porcini mushrooms
Now that Chef Pierre has moved onto Benoit in New York City, where he is a partner and the executive chef, I have invited Chef Tony Esnault to cook in my kitchen, and I might add, with very pleasing results. Recently, Tony arrived with a large quantity of porcini mushrooms and he demonstrated how to preserve, or can them for future use. He likes to have a supply in reserve for use as garnish, for delicious soups, and for other recipes.
Porcini are especially delicious wild mushrooms that have long been a treasure in European cuisine because of their meaty texture and their deep and woodsy flavor. These mushrooms are also quite versatile. They’re exquisite in delicate sauces and soups, and are a flavorful addition to hearty stews or as an accompaniment to roasted meats. Quite often, porcini are preserved by drying them, so I was very interested to see Tony’s method of canning these lovely fungi. As you will see, there is a lot going on in these kitchen shots and nothing goes to waste. Come, have a look.
Fantastic Mushrooms... I'll have to go to Cairo and see if anyone sells them there, no one does here in Port Said. Does anyone know if someone exports them? Also, what happens after the jars are put in the water? I assume it is simmered but for how long?
Greetings from Robyn in Egypt
Posted by: Robyn Kadis | January 29th, 2009 at 10:52 pm
Hi, Martha,
I enjoyed seeing your new chef Tony Esnault at work in your kitchen preserving porcini mushrooms. I, too, can almost smell them. They look so delicious. Seeing him canning, I am reminded of years of canning, first with my Mom, and then on my own. We didn't use towels, but they would be a good cushion for the jars.
Thanks for the memories!
I have been wondering for a while whether you prefer gas or electric stoves and ovens. In watching Tony cook, I see you have a gas stove.
Those mushrooms looked so tasty! Sounds good for lunch.
Kathy
Posted by: Kathy | January 30th, 2009 at 1:35 am
How interesting! I never thought it was possible to preserve mushrooms, but it looks fairly simple. I particularly enjoy the fact that nothing is wasted - I'd love to see more posts like this one!
Posted by: Emily | January 30th, 2009 at 2:09 am
Neat. I remember the days when we all worked from canned goods and especially canned soups. At one time it seemed everything had to have cream of mushroom soup in it. Again those were the days when in rural America electricity was a luxury.
Posted by: Margie | January 30th, 2009 at 5:17 am
Hi Martha,
I am crazy about mushrooms but never would have thought about canning them. Hmmm, I have all those Ball jars I just purchased too. Anyway, you are so lucky to be able to have a chef in your kitchen. I would love to see your stocked pantry shelves with jams and tomatoes and mushrooms and....well, I look forward to seeing some of Chef Tony's dishes like we did with Chef Pierre.
Congratulations on your induction into the Magazine Editors' Hall of Fame! That is a great honor and I am very happy for you! Trish
Posted by: Trish | January 30th, 2009 at 5:36 am
never been to your site until now! never knew your blog! hi martha! i am such a fan!
hope to learn more
i have learned so many things, and when i was pregnant i only watched you every single day! i am here in the philippines now, and a stay at home mom, but serious foodie!
will be following this blog from now on!
i linked this up in my blog as well
more power! and wish i could meet you and be an audience in your show
Posted by: isi | January 30th, 2009 at 5:41 am
Chef Tony seems like a "fun guy"! Can you tell most of my conversations are with children?
Linda
Posted by: Linda Crispell | January 30th, 2009 at 6:07 am
THESE MUSHROOMS ARE ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS!...and I'm not just giving you lip-service here...man, do they look good! Folks who don't like mushrooms are really missing out! It's like you say, Martha...the earthiness in the aromas they give - there's nothing like it! (Maybe that's what some folks don't like. [chuckle] )
One (of the manymany) thing(s) I truly love about you, Martha, is your thriftiness in the kitchen, not wasting a DROP - of anything! We were taught as children to 'clean up your plate because there were starving children somewhere in the world'. I really admire in you this attribute, in reusing/recycling/repurposing things that would otherwise result in waste. You seem to go back to your roots and carry them with you always, and I do admire that.
Now. Yesterday's show (1/29). I WANT A P-TOUCH! (IdoIdoIdo!) This is something I've wanted for quite some time now (because you use one all the time), but I haven't indulged as of yet. The Lord has gifted me with organizational skills that come naturally and are effortless for me. My home is always presentable, clothes in drawers and closets are uniform in appearance (hung and folded the Martha-way), things are always returned back where they belong...there's always room for improvement, though... This tool would come in soooooo handy! I only KNOW that I'd turn into a P-Touch-fool if I had one! [giggle] (I think after I'm done my post here, that I'll research the best price on one of those - gotta' have one, pure-n-simple!...)
Onward-n-upward!
(...off I go...)
=^..^=
"Keep your face always toward the sunshine and the shadows will fall behind you."--M B Whitman
Posted by: Cindy Bricker | January 30th, 2009 at 7:01 am
Hi Martha, I have never cooked mushrooms in any fashion in my life. But, after watching your new chef, Tony, I am inspired to try his methods. I see them in the stores all the time, but have never bought any. With these cooking school techniques, I'm going to try something new. Wish me luck! Tony is certainly an efficient chef-just your kind of guy! Thanks again for sharing. Stay warm everybody. Jan
Posted by: Jan Erickson | January 30th, 2009 at 10:35 am
Those looks wonderful! I've been trying more veggie friendly meals. I am getting married in 8 months, so eating healthy and working out has become a priority. Mushrooms have always been intimidating, they need to be done right to keep their flavor intact. I really enjoyed seeing the techniques used. Thanks for posting this.
Posted by: Jennifer | January 31st, 2009 at 10:28 am
Hi Martha Stewart. I love you!
Posted by: Kimberly | February 1st, 2009 at 3:30 am
Hi Martha (and team),
We are a mushroom loving family. I grew up picking mushrooms in the hillsides in France to go home and feast on. I have never been a real fan of the Porcini mushroom though perhaps it is because I have only ever bought some very dry sorry looking things at the store for a given recipe.
On a different note, my daughter (4) loves you. Her grandparents live in Pound Ridge (with a fabulous artists' garden - grandpa's) and she knows your new house is not too far. She would love to visit to see your house. She knows you have owls (that's the logo for Grandmas school so we always look out for owl things).
My favourite comment that she made one day when we were doing a project (she was 3 at the time). I just wish we had a bone folder [like Martha] so we could just "bone" this down better. ( I do have one of course, but we didn't have it out.).
Thanks.
Leah Klein
Boston Family Foodie
Posted by: Leah Klein | February 1st, 2009 at 5:55 am
Mushrooms are great, If you go to Chgo you must have a Italian beef sandwich. I live in Yakima Wa. and I can't find a recipe for the sauce anywhere. Can you help Martha?
Posted by: carmela newstead | February 1st, 2009 at 1:26 pm
Dear Ms. Stewart, I was so saddened to read that you lost your chow chow. I had a fawn chow at age 7 and have had several since. My husband and I have a blue chow, Lucy Lu and a black chow, Pennie Pepper and love them so much. We lost our beloved cinnamon chow a few months ago after she shared life with us for 16 years. It is so hard to say goodbye. May your life be blessed with many more "royal" chow chows and we pray that you may recover from your loss soon. Our best to you, Jo Ann and Lyndon Taylor.
Posted by: Mrs. Jo Ann Taylor | February 2nd, 2009 at 4:06 pm
Wow, what a creative and useful chef. I love porcinis. They are one of those mushrooms that add such a meaty yet complex flavor. I love the pictures. I cannot find fresh porcinis, only dried, which aren't so bad re-hydrated. But nothing can beat fresh, like a fresh truffle. HEAVEN
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