1 This area, once filled with ferns and lilies, was cleared of all its bulbs. Some of the sod was also stripped and moved to the chicken yard.
2 Once the bulbs were removed from the ground, they were gathered in garden trug buckets and then sorted.
3 Thousands of bulbs were pulled up - lilies, scilla and squill. They were separated by type into trays.
4 The best time to transplant bulbs is in the fall after vegetative growth has fully died back for the winter.
5 If bulbs cannot be planted right away, they should be stored in a cool, dark place - exposure to light will encourage sprouting. Any bulbs that get soft or moldy should be discarded.
6 I decided to transplant my lilies along the front of the clematis pergola, right here in place of the catnip. Come spring, this will be a glorious mix of blue, purple, orange and white.
7 All the catnip was moved down to my lilac beds where I am sure they will thrive.
8 Wilmer cleared this area and prepared it for the lily bulbs. I am always so happy to see how rich my soil is. I love that I can amend it with nutrient filled compost made right here at my farm.
9 Ryan positioned the bulbs in the garden bed before they were planted. Doing this helps to ensure all the bulbs were properly spaced.
10 When planting bulbs, use the right tools to ensure holes are dug to the right size and depth. This bulb planter was perfect for the lilies.
11 These bulb planters are very easy to use - just push them into the ground. They are made to create holes about eight-inches deep, which was the right depth for these large lily bulbs. Lilies should be located where they can get full day sun, and where their soil is well drained.
12 Each bulb was placed into the hole, nose up, or roots down. If you're not sure which is which, place the bulb on its side. Eventually, no matter how a bulb is positioned in the ground, it will find its way up, so don't worry.
13 After each bulb was planted, it was fed. I like to use Espoma Bulb Tone Plant Food, which is an all natural blend of beneficial microbes to ensure good plant growth. http://www.espoma.com/product/bulb-tone/
14 Once all the bulbs were planted, the holes were back filled and the soil was slightly compressed - not tightly packed.
15 Wilmer added some bone meal fertilizer. Bone meal is used to increase phosphorous, which is essential for plants in order for them to flower.
16 Finally, Wilmer raked the area smooth and gave the bulbs a drink to settle the soil around them.
17 Here were the changing bald cypress trees, Taxodium distichum, just across the carriage road from the newly planted clematis pergola beds.
18 In the daffodil area next to my Tenant House, I decided to plant all the scilla and squill bulbs that were removed from the fern and lily garden. Here was Wilmer in the middle of this transplanting process.
19 These are scilla and squill bulbs. The flowers are typically blue, but they also bloom in white, purple and even pink.
20 Wilmer used a dibber, also known as a dibble or dibbler, to make the holes for these bulbs because they were smaller and didn't require ones that were as deep or as big as the lilies.
21 Also easy to use, Wilmer just pushed the dibber into the soil and dropped a bulb inside - the daffodil bulbs are still there, but buried deeper.
22 Again, the nose of the bulb should be planted faced up. Thousands of bulbs like these were planted. Scilla thrive in a variety of light conditions - full sun, dappled sun or part shade. Be sure they get good light and are planted where the soil drains well.
23 These holes were about four-inches deep.
24 To prevent accidental bare spots, none of the holes were back filled until the very end. It's an easy way to keep track of where bulbs were planted.
25 Once all the bulbs were in the ground, Wilmer back-filled and then smoothed the bed over with a rake, and gave them all a good drink of water. I can't wait to see them next spring.