March 8, 2016
Pruning and Tying the Climbing Roses
With temperatures expected to be above normal this week, I decided it was a good time to do some work in the flower garden to prepare it for the planting season.
The outdoor grounds crew began raking the flower beds, and removing all the plant debris. My gardener, Wilmer, started the task of pruning and tying the climbing roses, several of which are now located in my flower garden on tall tower trellises. All my climbers are thriving in this garden. If you recall, I moved them here a few years ago from my home in East Hampton, New York. I can't wait to see them all in full bloom once again.
Enjoy these photos, and get excited for spring - it is officially less than two weeks away.
1 I have six of these tower trellises in my flower garden. Last spring, I moved a few of my climbing rose plants from along the fence of the garden to the center, where they continue to grow and flourish.
2 These climbers do best when supported by a trellis or fence. They are just several of the many rose bushes I moved from my Long Island home in 2013, where they grew on trellises on my front porch.
3 These plant canes were growing in all different directions and needed to be pruned and tied.
4 When selecting a trellis, be sure it's strong enough to hold the weight of a full grown rose plant in both wet and windy weather.
5 Also be sure it is easy to access all parts of the trellis for pruning.
6 When working with roses, be sure to use a good pair of gloves - the thorns can be very sharp.
7 To clamber upwards and reach sunlight, roses that climb take advantage of their thorns’ natural propensity to hook onto anything around them. It is important to train major canes in the direction you want on the armature.
8 Wilmer assessed which ones needed pruning.
9 And then arranged the canes, so they weren't crowded.
10 Main canes on a climbing rose are the ones that grow from the base of the plant. These canes form the structure.
11 Laterals are the “side-shoots” that come off the main canes - they bear the flowers.
12 On established plants, prune dead, damaged, and overcrowded canes.
13 Prune the flowering side shoots to two to three buds above the structural canes during the dormant season.
14 After they finish blooming in summer, prune canes back by one-third to one-half to promote branching and to keep your rambler tidy.
15 We use a natural jute twine for most of our garden tying projects.
16 When tying, the twine does not have to be tight - just enough to anchor the branch and provide proper guidance as it grows.
17 Knots should be very simple.
18 The loop around the plant cane should be just tight enough to keep the vine secure, but not break it.
19 Any hanging twine would be clipped close to the knot to keep it tidy.
20 To ensure canes don't get tied too close together, twist the twine a couple of times before knotting around a vine.
21 Snip off branches that are growing too thickly. Every three years, also cut out some of the older canes and allow new, younger canes to replace them.
22 Always remove the weak canes so that the plant can focus strength into a few strong main canes.
23 Don't worry if you need multiple ties to secure the canes.
24 Roses require at least six hours of sunlight during the growing season and fertile, well-drained soil. Choose a spot with plenty of space. Climbing roses tend to overtake the space that they grow in, so they should be positioned away from trees, shrubs, and other plants.
25 I can't wait to see the long, arching canes that will grow many flowers on these trellises.
26 Meanwhile, Phurba raked the garden beds and cleared away the old plant material. Gardening season is almost here - so exciting.