I Went on a Guided Tour of The Elms in Newport, Rhode Island
As you may know from reading my blog, I was recently in Newport, Rhode Island, where I spent an enjoyable weekend visiting my good friends, Holly Bannister and Doug Newhouse. I blogged about an invigorating early morning walk along the amazing Cliff Walk and also about a fascinating tour of the International Yacht Restoration School. Today, I’d like to take you on another tour of one of the grand summer “cottages” that line the Newport shoreline. Because of its lovely climate and island appeal, Newport was the scene of an exciting era known as the Gilded Age, when the area was the summer home of America’s wealthiest and most influential families. Lavish mansions were designed by America’s greatest architects and many of them are maintained by the Preservation Society of Newport County for the public to enjoy. Our tour was of the grand estate called The Elms.
1 This is the stately Elms. Edward Julius Berwind, a coal baron, hired architect Horace Trumbauer to design the Elms and the building was completed in 1901.
2 The Elms is modeled after the mid-eighteenth century French Château d'Asnières in Asnières-sur-Seine, France. This limestone cottage has a rounded central section flanked by wings of equal size - a simple plan of balanced proportions.
3 This is one of the copper roofed marble teahouses or pavilions overlooking the Sunken Garden.
4 The beautiful Sunken Garden is planted with hundreds of pink and white begonias and miniature boxwood hedges.
5 There are magnificent statues everywhere, including the rooftop.
6 I was fascinated by the marble sphinxes flanking the front entrance.
7 The gardens are magnificent.
8 And so is this stately European Fernleaf Beech - Fagus sylvatica 'Asplenifolia' - Native to Europe - Height: 50 - 60 ft.
9 As is this fountain
10 We walked around the expansive grounds for a bit.
11 Another amazing fountain
12 Like the house itself, the grounds of The Elms were designed in French 18th-century taste.
13 Another wonderful statue
14 Here I am with our guides - Trudy Coxe, CEO of the Preservation Society and John Tschirch, Director of Museum Affairs.
15 Passing through the ornate glass and wrought iron doors, you enter a foyer with Ionic columns of Italian breccia marble. The Grand Staircase has white marble steps and a wrought iron and bronze railing.
16 A better look at that breccia marble
17 The Elms mansion measures 60,000 square feet and contains 48 rooms. This is the Library with its dark wood and red silk walls.
18 Edward Julius Berwind and his wife, Herminie, enjoyed entertaining at The Elms until Herminie's death in 1922. This is the conservatory.
19 After his wife's death, Edward asked his sister, Julia, to act as his hostess at The Elms. This is a highly ornamented 19th-century marble urn adorned with full-relief satyrs, cherubs, and sphynxes.
20 Edward and Herminie had no heirs and when Edward died, Julia inherited The Elms.
21 In the ballroom hangs a Giovanni Boldini - Portrait of Elizabeth Drexel Lehr, flanked by ormolu wall sconces.
22 The ballroom is adorned with elaborate white stucco relief decorations. The ceiling medallion features winged cherubs and the Baccarat crystal chandelier is original to the room.
23 The Ballroom is the largest room in the mansion, measuring 41' x 49' x 19'. This gold piano is a Steinway circa 1900.
24 Julia, the sister, was unmarried and also had no heirs, and she bequeathed The Elms to her nephew. He, in turn, sold the house and 90% of its contents.
25 The richly paneled dining room - The mantel and overmantel is constructed of agate, onyx, and marble and a bust occupies the overmantel niche.
26 The dining room was designed by Parisian decorator Jules Allard as a backdrop for a collection of early 18th century Venetian paintings.
27 Julia Berwind summered at The Elms until her death at the age of 96 in 1961. In 1962, The Elms was slated for demolition when friends of The Preservation Society of Newport County raised money to buy it. Plus, 50% of the original contents of the house has now been returned.
28 One of the upstairs bedrooms
29 Another bedroom
30 An upstairs bathroom - It's interesting to note that The Elms was one of the first Newport homes to have electricity.
31 More of the bathroom
32 Another bathroom
33 I was very impressed with this linen press. The chambermaids washed and changed all the sheets and linens everyday.
34 This is the sewing room.
35 Fire hoses are mounted throughout the building.
36 We climbed the back staircase to get to the top-floor staff quarters. This and all of the work areas of the mansion were purposefully hidden from view.
37 The Elms had a large staff and their quarters were concealed on the top floor of the house. There are 13 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms to support a summer staff of more than 40, working around the clock, particularly when the Berwinds were hosting an event.
38 One of the staff bathrooms
39 The servants' quarters opens onto a roof deck where tour goers can step out. The rooftop view of the mansion's 10-acre grounds and of Newport Harbor beyond was breathtaking!
40 We then descended into the deep cellar where the kitchen, laundry, and other workrooms were concealed. Many, many sumptuous meals were prepared on this massive stove. Like other prominent Newport families, the Berwinds hosted 2 or 3 dinner parties each week for 50 to 60 people.
41 A large wash sink and drainage board for dishes, pots, and pans
42 The sheets and linens were hand-washed in large wash tubs and hung in a drying room.
43 They were then pressed by hand on big ironing tables with heavy irons.
44 Also in the cellar is a railroad track that travels through a tunnel leading to the street where coal was delivered.
45 Coming out of the tunnel, the car rolled onto a turntable.
46 The turntable turned the car.
47 The coal was rolled and fed into these massive boilers.
48 This photo shows how deep the cellar is.
Martha Pins
Martha Tweets
What a place, but my favorite photos are of the tree in photo #9, and the one where you show up in the mirror while taking a picture.
Gloria G!!
Posted by: Gloria | September 25th, 2012 at 12:30 am
Hi Martha,
Thank you so much for the tour. Absolutely magnificent!
I don't know what I like better the inside or the outside!
The amount of work and money to maintain such a mansion
must be unbelievable. To do all those linens by hand and all
those dishes everyday and just dust must have been full time
jobs. Enjoy the beauty of the day!
Kathy
Posted by: Kathy Peterson | September 25th, 2012 at 4:24 am
Martha, thanks for sharing this blog.
Posted by: KLBrown | September 25th, 2012 at 6:17 am
I'm struck by the ingenuity and efficiency of the systems here (e.g. the turning of the coal cart, the beautiful copper pots) and the vulgarity of the living quarters. Thanks for the fascinating view into a side of the house we might not see if we visited ourselves.
Posted by: Charlotte K | September 25th, 2012 at 6:24 am
Thank you for the tour of the Elms at Newport Beach Martha. I agree with Kathy, I can't decide which I like better the manicured grounds with the beautiful fountains and statues or the grand, ornate rooms inside! I'm very curious to know what way that second little tub in pic# 32 was used.
Posted by: Cindy F | September 25th, 2012 at 8:23 am
So beautiful ..thanks for all the photos. I have a new attitude as I start my ironing today, a job I do not love but love everything ironed. Reminds me of Downton Abbey!
Posted by: Glenda Fader | September 25th, 2012 at 8:25 am
The staff quarters and kitchen (where I would have worked 100 years ago) were my favorites- very Downton Abbey!
Posted by: homer | September 25th, 2012 at 8:47 am
Cindy, the small tub in picture #32 is called a sitz bath. It was used for soaking after the long carriage rides!
Posted by: Melanie Garcia | September 25th, 2012 at 9:12 am
Just beautiful. But what impressed me most about this post is all the hard and difficult work the staff had to do in order to keep the house running. Hard to imagine now!
Posted by: Evelyn | September 25th, 2012 at 9:28 am
Hi Martha, I have never been to Newport, RI personally, but I so enjoy seeing these absolutely beautiful tours you have shared with us September 18, 19, and today! Touring the Cliff Walk with sweet Lily was fabulous, touring The International Yacht School was awesome, and touring The Elms today was marvelous! I love all of this historical information about the grand estate called The Elms! Every photo is stunning and how great to be able to see not only the outside of the building, but how fantastic to see so much of the inside and I love it all! What a strong building built clear back in 1901-marvelous! I agree that the gardens are magnificent, also! I love that 50-60 foot beech tree in photo #9! Love the fountains and statues, too! You look so happy and cute in photo #15 with your tour guides and photo #32 of the bathroom, with your photo in that mirror is absolutely charming! I also love seeing every room and the stairways inside! Photo # 40, with you showing us the rooftop view is awesome! Thanks so much for sharing this, Martha, I love seeing it over and over again! Loved hearing you on SiriusXM110 yesterday! Didn't have any questions, but loved hearing you help those who did! Hope you have another great day! Off to see The Daily Wag with "Clean Bedding in the Stable!" Jan
Posted by: Jan Erickson | September 25th, 2012 at 10:10 am
Just my opinion, but the rounded central section in picture #3’ makes’ the building. Without it, I think it would look like an old city elementary school, kind of like the one I attended in Detroit. It makes me smile to read ‘cottage’. It’s interesting to learn something about the owners and their heirs and that the Preservation Society got 50% of the original contents back. I’m impressed with Preservation Societies, but then, who isn’t. The staff sure had their work cut out for them though with washing sheets in a tub and then ironing them with flat irons. I read that Julia Berwind wasn’t interested in technology and so washing machines and dryers were never installed. I remember my mother using a washboard and I noticed they are still for sale at places like Amazon. It looks like the plumbing at the Elms is here to stay also – not a bit of rust on any of those great looking pipes. I bet any old building that gets demolished, leaves pipes still standing strong; unlike the PVC pipes we have today. Thanks for your enjoyable pictures of the fascinating Elms which has conjured up lots of thinking for me especially upon seeing the basement and the coal bins. I read they also had a turntable in the garage because the driver who used to be the head coachman didn’t know how to back up. I think I’m off to buy a washboard. Trish
Posted by: Trish | September 25th, 2012 at 10:47 am
Beautiful as usual. Miss your show!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Have watched you from the early PBS days. I would enjoy reruns of all your shows. Love Halloween my favorite shows. Good Luck with the New Show.
Posted by: Sally Heath-Livingston | September 25th, 2012 at 10:57 am
Thank you Melanie, makes sense!
Posted by: Cindy F | September 25th, 2012 at 11:15 am
Hi Martha:
This was great. I love the old mansions and have been to the Elms. I remember a story about the giant front doors. They are of great weight and perfectly balanced on 2 piviots. Looking forward to the new show.
Posted by: Pat | September 25th, 2012 at 12:59 pm
A wonderful tour...love the gardens and many appointments of this magnificent home.
Thanks for sharing!
Posted by: sherey | September 25th, 2012 at 2:18 pm
Hi Martha,
So happy you were able to visit our glorious little state. Newport is amazing, and the view you enjoyed of the harbor is where I usually go sailing during our beautiful summers. The mansions are incredible, too, and I have seen several, including the Elms. Your tour was much more "open" than the public's, but why not - you're you!
You were also right down the street from my house at Famous Pizza! If only I knew you were three minutes away - one of my Bucket List items would have been accomplished (Meeting my idols: Martha Stewart and Roger Federer). Maybe next time.
Best of luck with your show. I will really miss the daily show, however. Hope you can get one back someday.
Thank you,
Roberta Palumbo
Posted by: Roberta Palumbo | September 25th, 2012 at 5:07 pm
Wow! I would love to visit this place! Thought of my favorite show while viewing the pictures....Downton Abbey! Thank you for sharing.
Posted by: Margaret in Maine | September 25th, 2012 at 5:48 pm
Loved this tour Martha. I so miss your show. Can't wait for the new one starting in October.
Posted by: James Cauthen | September 25th, 2012 at 6:50 pm
I love, love, love when you share places like this!! What an interesting home!
Posted by: Jeanine | September 25th, 2012 at 7:36 pm
Thanks for sharing. Reminds me of PBS's series Downton Abby and the masion they are filming in. Our own American version!
Posted by: Meilssa Bates | September 25th, 2012 at 8:36 pm
Hi Martha,
Beautiful and informative as always. Love Newport RI. Fort Adams is a nice place to see the beautiful boats go by. Of course you show us things that we never get to see like the beautiful homes both from the ocean side and inside. Any place you recommend for dinner. Seafood shacks and or fine dining?
Best
Tim
Posted by: Tim | September 25th, 2012 at 8:38 pm
Even the parts I didn't like I loved. Beyond stunning...
Posted by: Barbara Mooney | September 25th, 2012 at 8:39 pm
Thank you for the walk down memory lane. It was only a short time ago on our way to visit our daughter in NC that we wandered over to the Newport Mansions in Rhode Island. It was such a fantasy walking in and out of the mansions. I especially liked the closets and kitchen areas. I remember the big electric switches on the wall that looked like something right out of a Frankenstein movie.
This chandelier you speak of is original and without electricity was all candles at one time. Can you imagine how many candles it took to light such a large place, never mind that what about the job of running electricity to all those chandeliers? I have the same picture of the European Fernleaf Beech Tree, I was amazed by the root system.
Thanks again for the tour and perhaps some day you will visit Prince Edward Island and tour the round rotating house in North Rustico, I'll be your tour guide, lol. Watch my blog http://besidethetrail.ca for the post on the rotating house.
Good luck with the coming adventure
Posted by: Cindy Cousineau | September 25th, 2012 at 9:19 pm
Hi Martha,
In 2001 I was lucky enough to be at the 100 birthday party of the Elms. The Preservation Society put on a black tie gala/ball for it. Many of the Berwind family descendents came, and maybe 1300 to 1600 people attended that night. A big tent was set up on the back lawn of the house and Peter Duchin and his orchestra played the music. There was some kind of monkey theme that night, and we had a meal similar to what the Berwinds offered when they lived there. I remember succotash being part of the food.. That was the first of about five Preservation Society balls I attended over the years. I hope to one day get to Newport again, it is a beautiful city.
Posted by: Fred Gonsowski | September 25th, 2012 at 10:14 pm
Thank you Martha for an amazing tour. Beautiful
Posted by: Rowaida Flayhan | September 25th, 2012 at 10:39 pm
What a wonderful friends you have with Doug and Holly. Warm friend and a beautiful home and gardens, what more could you ask for.
Posted by: Lois Martinez | September 25th, 2012 at 11:36 pm
ms martha, thank you so much for sharing.........i felt like i was on tour as well.............i guess we'll never see the likes of that age again......didn't you find yourself a wee bit jealous.......i did!!!!!! p.s. can't wait to see your halloween costume this year......
Posted by: memoir | September 26th, 2012 at 3:44 pm
I am so envious! I want to go and see the cottages so badly. You wrote that the house is 60,000 sq ft. Incredible! It dosen't appear that large from the outside. Of course, much of the space is subterranean work rooms and servant quarters.
Posted by: Cody Clark Allen | September 27th, 2012 at 1:03 pm
Lady Martha,few words to say:your works are amazing and astonishing !!!
Like you.A virtual bow,with hand-kissing.
Posted by: Walter Di Meo | September 27th, 2012 at 1:19 pm
While they are fascinating as period pieces, the unsustainability of these houses as family homes seems sad. Monuments to ego that become money pits. That may seem negative but how much better a legacy is that benefits rather than drains future citizens. The beech tree photo is delightful.
Posted by: Karen | October 20th, 2012 at 2:57 pm
I love Newport--The Elms is also beautiful decorated for Christmas
Miss your daily show...
Posted by: Denise Howland | October 27th, 2012 at 5:39 pm
HAVE YOU VISITED OUR NEW SHOWROOM YET?
"The Best Kept Secret in The Antique Trade!"
Posted by: Sergio | November 29th, 2012 at 6:58 pm
We have a square grand piano that says Prestien Berwind/Phildelphia. Wondering if you would know anything about this. Is it related to the Berwind you are referring too. I am having a hard time researching this.
Posted by: Cindy Wentzel | February 13th, 2013 at 7:13 pm