I always try to make the most of business trips by visiting beautiful and interesting places in between scheduled commitments.
During a recent visit to Maryland I had the opportunity to visit Ladew Topiary Gardens in Monkton, just north of Baltimore. Ladew features more than 100 larger than life topiary forms across 22 acres and surrounding an historic Manor House designed and developed by topiary enthusiast, Harvey S. Ladew. As luck would have it, I not only toured the exquisite gardens, but also attended its 17th annual Garden Festival - a specialty plant, garden ornament, and antiques sale with more than 40 vendors from around the region.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
When Harvey Ladew first purchased his Maryland property, he decided he would take on the task of planning and landscaping the gardens himself. I am sure he would be proud of what it looks like today. This is a view across the Great Bowl to the Terraces of the Ladew Manor House. (Photo by Jim Lockard Photography)
The 18th century historic Manor House was completed over three centuries and houses Harvey’s collection of English antiques and equestrian-themed art. The Manor House was a great inspiration for the gardens. (Photo by Helen Norman)
Harvey Ladew began developing his gardens in 1937. After seeing many European gardens, he decided his would have two cross axes to allow for long vistas. The axes would intersect at a swimming pool placed in the center of what is called the Great Bowl. (Photo courtesy of Ladew)
These topiaries are yews, Taxus, and create the wall of the Great Bowl.
Here is a reproduction of what inspired Harvey’s love for topiaries. He had passed a similar sculpted scene during a hunt in England – topiary hounds chasing a fox. In his rendition, he also added riders on their trusted mounts.
Here is one planted over a fence. It is one of the most well-loved topiaries in the garden.
In all, there are more than 100 larger than life topiary forms at Ladew. (Photo courtesy of Ladew)
Here is another topiary on the terrace – simple in design, but wonderfully sculpted.
Here I am at the top of the steps into Harvey’s Garden of Eden. The steps are inscribed with one of his favorite Chinese proverbs – and one of mine, too. It says, “If you want to be happy for a week, take a wife, if you want to be happy for a month kill your pig, but if you would be happy all your life, plant a garden.”
In this corner is a bench in a nook built into the wall of the Rose Garden. The arch features Rosa ‘New Dawn’.
In almost every view around the Manor, one sees mature and meticulously groomed topiary forms.
In the foreground is Nepeta, also known as catmint. In the background is Stachys byzantina ‘Helene von Stein’ with underplanting emerging roses.
Here, topiaries also accent the tulip beds in the Croquet Court.
And this is a view of the Victorian Garden fountain through a bed of rhododendrons and towering Cryptomeria.
On this day, I was lucky to also attend Ladew’s 17th annual Garden Festival.
Hundreds attend this event every year to browse the more than 40 vendor tents. (Photo by Jim Lockard Photography)
Ornamental garden fountains, urns, and furniture can be found at the Festival…
… along with many rare and interesting perennials and annuals, and small trees. Some of the proceeds of the event go to the maintenance and preservation of Ladew.
Here is a colorful selection of Salvia nemerosa, also known as meadow sage.
And this is Sarracenia or pitcher plants – they’re carnivorous.
Here I am with renowned hellebores expert, David Culp. I’ve known him for may years. You may have seen him on my television shows. It was good to catch up with him at Ladew.
Visitors can pick up their purchases at a designated spot. It is very well organized and managed.
And here I am with David, the Garden Festival co-chairs Lynn Janney, Stiles Colwill, Dudley Mason, and Ladew Director, Emily Emerick. If you’re ever in the area, I encourage you to visit Ladew Topiary Gardens.
This encore blog was originally posted on April 16th of last year.
Do you know why the Japanese stewartia tree is one of my favorites? "Stewart" is my last name after all.
The Japanese stewartia, Stewartia pseudocamellia, is a small, slow-growing, all-season performer that shows off fresh green leaves in spring, white flowers resembling single camellias in summer, and colorful foliage in autumn. It's also well-loved for its attractive exfoliating bark, which peels away in strips of gray, reddish-brown, and orange. Yesterday, my outdoor grounds crew planted a stand of young stewartia trees behind my Gym building in an area not far from my main Greenhouse, my winding pergola, and of course, my stewartia garden.
Here are some photos.
I love stewartia trees and have several different kinds of stewartias growing at my farm. This is a view of my Stewartia garden behind my Tenant House in late spring. The stewartias planted here include Stewartia gemmata, Stewartia x. henryae, Stewartia pseudocamellia ‘Ballet’, Stewartia monadelpha, Stewartia rostrata, and Stewartia henry ‘Skyrocket’.
One of its appealing features is the stewartia’s bark.
And these are the flowers of a Stewartia pseudocamellia – cup-shaped, camellia-like white blossoms up to two-and-a-half inches in diameter with showy orange-yellow anthers.
Over the weekend, I purchased a selection of stewartia trees to plant along the carriage road behind my Gym Building. Here, they will get full to partial shade and be somewhat shielded from any winds.
A crucial step in growing healthy trees is to plant them properly. The hole should be two to three times wider than the diameter of the tree’s rootball and two to three inches less than the height of the rootball.
Chhiring cuts off the wire basket so it can be removed. Wire baskets were designed to support the root ball during loading, shipping, and transplanting. Some cut the cages and leave them in the ground, but I prefer to remove them completely, so there is nothing blocking the growing roots.
He also removes the burlap wrapping that holds the root ball together.
All the wire cages and wrapping are piled up and discarded.
Chhiring rolls the root ball slowly and carefully into the hole and then looks at the tree from all sides to ensure it is perfectly straight and its best side is facing out toward the carriage road.
Chhiring is now sprinkling fertilizer. I always say, “if you eat, your plants should eat.” The soil in the planting hole is also amended with fertilizer.
The biodegradable resin coated shells allow for a slow release of the fertilizer.
We use Miracle-Gro® Shake ‘N Feed Flowering Trees and Shrubs Plant Food, which contains natural ingredients to feed microbes in the soil and provides continuous release feeding for up to three months.
The branches are just beginning to show spring growth. Stewartias have alternate, simple, elliptic, dark green leaves that grow five to nine-centimeters long.
This tree is placed at the right depth – at its flare – the bulge just above the root system where the roots begin to branch away from the trunk. When fully mature, the Stewartia can reach up to 30- to 40-feet tall.
The surrounding tree pit is given a nice edge…
…And then the hole is backfilled completely and tamped down to create good contact between the soil and the root ball..
It’s a good idea to use a tarp to hold any of the removed soil and sod – this will save lots of clean-up time and effort later.
I think the trees look so pretty in this area. And remember, always remove any tags that are on the tree. If left too long, these tags will eventually cut into the bark and potentially cut off the flow of nutrients.
While these trees are slow-growing and only about six-feet tall now, they have ample room here in this location.
They are some of the first flowering trees guests will see when they visit. Across is my long pergola, and on the left, the handsome tall trees are bald cypress, Taxodium distichum. I am looking forward to watching these trees grow and flourish.
Enjoy this encore blog post which originally ran on May 3rd of last year - the planting of six new and interesting trees around my pool.
Adding just one type of tree, bush, or plant can totally transform a space.
I enjoy planting interesting and beautiful specimens that add texture and beauty at different times throughout the year. I also like arranging groups of certain plantings to create borders, allées and appealing displays. Last week, I purchased six Ginkgo biloba Goldspire™ Obelisk trees from Select Horticulture Inc. in nearby Pound Ridge, New York. I knew these narrow upright tower trees would look excellent on both sides of my pool. They were delivered, positioned, and planted right away - and they look just perfect.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
There is always so much happening at my Bedford, New York farm. On this day, six Ginkgo biloba Goldspire™ Obelisk trees arrived. Select Horticulture Inc. secures their trees excellently for transport – they came in perfect condition.
Ginkgo Goldspire™ is a highly ornamental, non-fruiting male tree originating in Italy. It has a very upright, tight fastigiate habit, and the foliage tends to be smaller than other species.
Once the trees are delivered, each one is positioned inside the pool area. Each grows about one to two feet per year and prefers mostly sun and well-drained soil.
New foliage on the Ginkgo Goldspire™ emerges a rich shade of green, fan-shaped, and slightly curled. It keeps its color through summer, then turns buttery shades of yellow and gold in autumn before dropping.
I placed wooden stakes where I wanted the trees to go.
My outdoor grounds crew foreman, Chhiring Sherpa, measures the locations and then uses white landscape paint to mark a circle where each tree will be planted. These specimens should have at least 10-feet of space between them.
Chhiring goes over the circle line with our Classen Pro HSC18 sod cutter. The sod cutter goes over the lines smoothly and deeply.
There are different types of sod cutters, but they all essentially cut grass at the roots so entire sections of sod can be removed to expose the bare ground underneath.
Here is the new cleared out area. This will become the tree pit.
All six circles are done in the same way. It’s important to get these trees into the ground before the grass underneath the waiting trees gets burned – it’s been unseasonably warm this week.
The team begins digging. The holes must be pretty wide – each one should be at least two to five times as wide as the root ball, but no deeper than the root ball. Once in the hole, the top of the root ball should just be slightly higher than the soil surface. The hole sides should also be slanted. Digging a proper hole helps to provide the best opportunity for roots to expand into its new growing environment.
A good fertilizer made especially for new transplanted specimens should always be used. This is Miracle-Gro Shake ‘N Feed Flowering Trees and Shrubs Plant Food. A generous amount of the fertilizer is mixed in with the nutrient-rich soil.
Then each tree is placed into its designated hole. When moving heavy specimens, only hold it by the root ball, the base and trunk of the planting – never by its branches, which could easily break. Once the Ginkgo is in its hole it is turned so it is straight and its best side is facing the pool.
This part of the process is very important. Chhiring stands at a distance to make sure the tree is positioned properly. Always look at the specimen from all sides, especially from where it will be seen most often. And because these trees are specially shaped with straight sides, they must all be turned just right, so the sides match.
All the trees are positioned first before any backfilling is done, so adjustments can be made. These trees are now all in the ground and positioned correctly.
The burlap and metal cage wrappings help to support the root ball during loading, shipping, and transplanting. Some leave them in the ground, but I prefer to remove everything completely, so there is nothing blocking the growing roots.
Finally, the crew backfills the holes until they are properly filled. And remember, don’t plant it too deeply – always leave it “bare to the flare.”
Phurba tidies up the tree pit and makes sure there is good contact between the tree and the surrounding soil.
Here are three of the Ginkgo Goldspire™ Obelisk trees on one side. The term “obelisk” refers to the tall, four-sided, narrow tapering which ends in a pyramid shape at the top.
And here is a view looking south. The trees look so beautiful with the staddle stones at one end. I am looking forward to seeing these Ginkgo biloba Goldspire™ Obelisk trees develop and flourish.
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