It takes a lot of work to maintain the beautiful fencing at my farm.
My pasture fencing is made from 125-year-old white spruce railings I purchased in Canada. When the fences were built, I used new cedar uprights to support them. They've held up very well over the years, but many are now deteriorated and need replacing. Pete Sherpa, a longtime member of my outdoor grounds crew, takes on the task whenever he can. It's a tedious process and has to be done by hand so as not to damage the antique wood.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
I have lots of fencing here at my farm. It surrounds my horse paddocks, my orchard, my vegetable garden, and various other trees. The antique railings were constructed into a split rail fence and are in good shape, but many of the cedar uprights are deteriorated, wobbly, and no longer support the railings as they should.
This fence surrounds my half-acre vegetable garden. This corner is located just under one of my pink magnolia trees. The railings are sandwiched between two cedar posts buried deep into the ground.
Here is the fencing on one side of my allée of pin oaks. This was once a horse pasture and now surrounds my orchard. Many of you have commented on how much you admire these fences – I love them too!
Cedar logs are available at lumber yards. Here are new cedar logs piled nearby for easy access.
One by one they are placed next to the old posts being removed.
Posts are periodically checked for sturdiness. Those posts that need replacing are marked with brightly colored tree tape.
Here is an old post just removed from its hole. Notice how the bottom has deteriorated.
Some of the uprights were so worn, they broke during the removal process. These old posts will be chipped and repurposed as top dressing in the woodlands at a later time.
The existing holes are checked for proper depth and adjusted as needed. They need to be deep and narrow in order to accommodate the fence posts.
Here’s Pete carrying the new log to the hole. For Pete, it doesn’t even seem heavy, does it Pete?
Pete places the new cedar log into the hole and checks its height above ground. It needs a little trimming to match the others.
He uses our STIHL chainsaw. STIHL designed and built its first electric chain saw in 1926 and 100 years later, it is still one of its best pieces of equipment. I’ve been using STIHL tools for a long time.
And then back it goes into the designated hole. Each hole is more than three feet deep. The new posts will be very secure here – and no cement is needed.
Once a new post is positioned, Pete and adjusts it for level and turns the post so that the nicest side faces out.
Rocks are dropped in for extra tightness and security around the post.
And here, backfilling begins.
When the hole is filled half way, Pete uses a tamping bar to pack the soil tightly.
And then it is backfilled completely.
The new upright is secured with four-inch screws to keep it in line with the railings and the other posts.
Pete secures several screws to ensure it is well connected.
Here, one can see which posts were replaced. This project will take some time to complete with all the fencing on the property, but we’re making good progress.
Cedar is extremely durable and holds up well to outdoor weather conditions. The new posts should last about 15 years or more, keeping my horses, pony, and donkeys safe in their enclosures.
Among the many benefits of growing one's own flowers - they can be enjoyed both inside and out.
It's always so nice to walk through the gardens and see a multitude of beautiful and colorful blooms. I also love cutting fresh flowers to display in my home. Recently, my housekeeper Elvira Rojas brought in some beautiful spring tulips - so loved for their tall, straight stems, graceful leaves, and bright, cheery blooms.
Enjoy these photos and tips.
Hard not to love fresh, colorful spring tulips. They come in a large variety of shapes, sizes, colors, and forms. Some are traditional and cup-shaped, some have fringed petals, others have pointed ones, and some are full of fanciful ruffles. Some varieties even carry a soft, subtle scent.
Tulips typically begin emerging from the ground in late winter or early spring. I have tulips growing in many areas around my farm including several beds of my vegetable garden, in my flower cutting garden, and in this bed behind my main greenhouse.
In 2015, this garden was dedicated entirely to tulips. I eventually turned this space into a rose garden, but some tulips continue to pop up every spring.
Although closely associated with Holland, tulips were first cultivated in Turkey. The name tulip is believed to be derived from the Turkish word for turbans, “tulbend,” because of their resemblance.
Garden tulips thrive in sunny areas with well-drained soil. They also need cold winters, where they can get 12 to 16 weeks with temperatures between 35 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit to trigger proper root development and flower formation.
Here’s Elvira cutting some of the tulips to bring indoors. If possible, cut tulips when the buds show full color but are not yet completely open – this will allow for the longest vase life.
And cut flowers in the early morning or late evening when stems are fully hydrated and sugars are at their peak. And always use clean, sharp shears.
Cut the tulips at the base of the stem at a 45-degree angle to provide the largest surface area for water uptake while in the vase.
Elvira also picks some white tulips.
As soon as the flowers are brought in, vases are filled and arranging begins. I use cool, fresh water and only fill about two thirds to avoid over-submerging. More water can be added later if needed.
Putting tulips and other flowers in water soon after cutting prevents stems from sealing, which can slow water uptake and reduce freshness.
I like to keep similar colors and varieties together, but tulips can be mixed depending on preference.
Any leaves that would sit below the waterline should be removed to keep the flowers fresh and prevent bacteria from growing.
To remove the leaves, gently pull them back and peel them away from the stem.
These yellow tulips with bright red streaks are striking for cut arrangements.
My antique glass finger vases work well for tulips because they support the tall stems.
Elvira mixes white with these yellow tulips. Tulips have been hybridized in just about every color except blue. Most tulips have one flower per stem, but there are some multi-flowered varieties.
And do you know… tulips follow the sun even when they’re in a vase? Watch them. Tulips also continue to grow even after they’ve been cut.
Elvira looks at the arrangement from all sides and fills in any holes. This arrangement looks full and beautiful.
This arrangement is placed on this counter in my servery, where I can see them every day on my way to the kitchen.
Mother Luna Mona and daughter Half Moon nap nearby – flowers don’t interest them too much.
These tulips are displayed in my sitting room on a brass tray table. Keep cut flowers in a cool area as heat reduces the bloom time. I hope you can bring some flowers inside from the garden and enjoy the beautiful spring blooms.
So much is growing and blooming around my farm, including the showy, bright-colored tulips!
Tulips, which come in a variety of shapes and sizes, are perennial plants that open up each spring. They're grown for their graceful leaves and bright, cheery blooms. Some are traditional and cup-shaped, some have fringed petals, others have pointed ones, and some are full of fanciful ruffles. Some varieties even carry a soft, subtle scent. Many of my tulips are from Colorblends Wholesale Flowerbulbs in Bridgeport, Connecticut and The Flower Hat, a floral design studio and farm in Bozeman, Montana.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
It’s so exciting to see the swaths of color in the garden beds after a gray, dreary, cold winter. Look at these bright pink tulips.
Last year, just before Thanksgiving, we planted all of our tulip bulbs in a handful of raised beds in the vegetable garden. These look so healthy. Any kind of bulb should be firm and free of soft spots or visible rot.
All tulips are planted in the fall and bloom in the spring. They grow best in zones 3 to 8 where they can get eight to 12 weeks of cold temperatures while under the soil.
Each bulb is placed with the pointed end faced up. This is important for all bulbs. If the pointed end is not obvious, look for the flat side of the bulb, which is the bottom.
The beds were raked carefully so as not to disturb any bulb placements. Finally, they were left to nature for the duration of winter.
Then by mid-April, the foliage starts to emerge. The broad, strappy leaves of tulips have a waxy coating that gives them a blue-green color. There are usually two to six leaves per plant.
And soon after come the blooms. Tulips have a fascinating history. Although closely associated with Holland, tulips were first cultivated in Turkey. The name tulip is believed to be derived from the Turkish word for turbans, “tulbend,” because of their resemblance.
Tulips are perennial, spring-blooming plants. They are grown for their graceful leaves and bright and cheery flowers.
Tulips hold many different meanings around the world. In Western societies, they represent love. In Persian and Turkish traditions, tulips signify spring and renewal. Dutch cultures associate tulips with wealth and prosperity.
They gained popularity in Europe in the 17th century, peaking in 1636 to 1637.
And yes, Tulip Mania was real! It was a period during the Dutch Golden Age when prices for some tulip bulbs reached extraordinarily high levels. It started around 1634 and then dramatically collapsed in February 1637.
Tulips have been hybridized in just about every color except blue. Most tulips have one flower per stem, but there are some multi-flowered varieties.
Tulip ‘Sanne’ has impressive, elegantly tapered flowers that open deep rose-pink and creamy-pink edges. As it matures, it turns lilac-pink with pink-ivory edges.
‘Rosy Diamond’ has double blooms in shades of rose-pink splashed with tones of magenta.
‘Verona Sunrise’ shows off a blend of apricot, blush, and buttery yellow that deepens as the bloom matures.
This red tulip is accented with white edges.
Tulips need well-drained soil. Sandy soil amended with some organic matter is perfect. They also prefer a slightly acidic soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5. I am fortunate to have such great soil here at the farm. In these beds I use Miracle-Gro Organic Raised Bed & Garden Soil.
There are currently more than 3000 registered tulip varieties, which are divided into at least 15-groups, mostly based on the flower type, size, and blooming period.
Tulips require full sun for the best display, which means at least six-hours of bright, direct sunlight per day.
And do you know… tulips continue to grow after they are cut? Tulips grow about an extra inch after cutting and bend toward the light. Kept well-watered and away from heat, tulips can last about a week.
Most tulip plants range between six to 24-inches tall. Taller ones should be shielded from any winds, so they don’t topple over.
Tulips are stunning when planted en masse. By planting varieties with different bloom times, one can have tulips blooming from early to late spring.
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