Strawberries are among the easiest berries to grow. They're cold-hardy, adaptable, and can be planted in both garden beds and containers. Here at the farm, I am moving my strawberry patch to three long beds in the vegetable garden, so I can grow more delicious, sweet fruits to pick next summer.
In past seasons, I've grown my strawberries in beds behind my main greenhouse, where they had nutrient-rich, well-draining soil and lots of full sun. In their new location they will have the same excellent conditions plus more room to grow and thrive.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
Think back to those juicy summer strawberries. Strawberries are among the most popular fruits here in the United States. I love eating strawberries fresh from the garden or as jams and jellies I make myself. Do you know why it is called a “strawberry”? One theory is that woodland pickers strung them on pieces of straw to carry them to market. Others believe the surface of the fruit looks embedded with bits of straw. Still others think the name comes from the Old English word meaning “to strew,” because the plant’s runners stray in all directions as if strewn on the ground.
I grow strawberries every year. For the move, three new beds are prepped in the vegetable garden with organic soil that was fed and raked. Two lines of twine are set up down the entire length of the bed to delineate two separate mounds for the plants.
I use Miracle-Gro Raised Bed & Garden Soil, which is filled with slow release fertilizers that provide a steady supply of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, essential for fruiting.
Matthew carefully digs a trench in the center creating a mound on either side for the strawberry plants.
The trenches should be large enough to accommodate the roots without bending them. Strawberries also need slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.8.
Matt uses a spade to lift the soil and transfer it to the designated mounds, while keeping the center trench neat and tidy.
Matt then shapes the two side mounds. Growing strawberries on these small hills improves drainage, provides more air circulation, and allows for proper spacing, which is essential for fruit size and crop yield.
The mounds are about six to eight inches tall – plenty of room for growing roots. Matthew is careful to make neat, rounded mounds for the strawberry runners.
Here is a view after the mounds are properly shaped and tamped down. These beds with the middle dug out will also make it easier to walk through and harvest fruits next summer.
Matt covers the entire bed with weed fabric. I like to use a durable and thick fabric that can last through the winter. Here, Matthew cuts it to size.
Matt pulls the cloth taut, so it fits nicely over the bed.
Using garden sod staples, Matthew secures the fabric onto the bed.
These staples are easy to find at garden stores and can be used in these raised garden beds or on the ground to secure weed fabric or pieces of sod.
Using a knife, Matthew cuts holes in the fabric to accommodate the plants.
He cuts an “x” in the fabric and then folds the cut sides under the cloth, so a square hole is made for planting.
As Matt cuts holes, Phurba plants. Strawberry plants can be placed about six to eight inches apart.
Planting strawberries at the right depth is important – if the crown is buried, the plant could easily rot. Be sure to plant strawberries in mid-spring or early fall, when soil is warm, to give them the best chance of survival.
Once the plant is at its proper depth, Phurba backfills and tamps down lightly to ensure good contact with the soil.
Some of the plants are confused and showing off flowers, which typically bloom in spring.
Among the varieties planted – ‘Jewel,’ ‘Galletta,’ ‘AC Valley Sunset,’ ‘Earliglow,’ ‘Sparkle,’ and ‘Honeoye.’ I am sure these strawberries will thrive here and, once established, produce lots of flavorful sweet summertime fruits.
Here at my farm, there is always a long list of tasks to complete - among the most recent, replacing an old refrigerator in the prep kitchen of my guest house studio.
Because my prep kitchen is used for multiple events and shoots, sometimes with several chefs and assistants working in the space at once, it's important to ensure all the appliances are always in excellent condition. Some time ago, I noticed my Viking refrigerator was more than 27-years old and in need of updating. I replaced it with another durable and dependable Viking unit that is energy-efficient and able to cool a large supply of foods effectively.
Here are some photos and tips for selecting and installing one of the most important appliances in the home, enjoy.
I’ve used Viking for years. And after almost three decades of reliable performance, it was time to replace this side-by-side Viking refrigerator. While it was still functioning well, it was starting to show some regular wear and tear on its components, which could not keep up with the heavy demand of our food prep sessions.
How a refrigerator is used directly affects its lifespan. For busy families, a unit constantly overloaded with items may not cool as effectively. One that is also under high traffic, frequently opened and closed, can experience temperature fluctuations, impacting its longevity. Here is the team removing the old refrigerator.
This team works methodically and carefully. This old unit is wheeled out without touching a thing.
The new Viking professional VCBB5364RSS00 refrigerator is unloaded from the truck. This unit is a 36-inch bottom-freezer refrigerator. I felt this design may be more suitable for the prep kitchen.
When measuring for a new refrigerator, be sure to get height, width, and depth of the new space as well as any doorways that are in its transportation path.
The team manually transports this unit into the kitchen the same way the old unit left – without marring any walls or furniture.
Modern refrigerators are generally lighter than their predecessors because of the use of lighter construction materials and energy-efficient parts. It doesn’t take long to get the new unit into the kitchen.
The new refrigerator fits perfectly – thanks to good measuring.
Before rolling it completely into place, check the refrigerator for adjustable feet. Most modern units, like this Viking, will be equipped with leveling systems that can be raised or lowered to ensure stability and good fit.
The fridge is now level and can easily be wheeled into its permanent position.
All the protective cardboard and plastic wraps, and any information cards are removed.
The refrigerator’s main compartment is very roomy. The bottom-freezer design allows for easy access to all items. The Adjustable Humidity Zone™ Drawers have humidity controls for food preservation and a soft-close feature to prevent any damage.
Lighting inside the compartment uses bright and energy-efficient LED elements at the top and on the sidewalls.
The temperature panel provides ProChill™ Temperature Management with electronic controls and a digital readout. It is also built with a single and quiet compressor system.
The door is outfitted with metal bins to securely hold all necessary items.
The Plasmacluster™ Ion Air Purifier uses advanced technology to eliminate any airborne bacteria and mold particles and odors.
It has deep, roomy, and durable freezer compartments for storage.
And the freezer has a large-capacity automatic ice maker and bucket.
The exterior is stainless steel, which is highly resistant to rust, corrosion and staining – a long-lasting option for heavy use kitchen appliances. I know I will get many years of use out of this Viking refrigerator.
I have many hornbeam hedges around my farm. They're hardy and provide changing texture and color during the year - green foliage in summer, golden yellow leaves in fall, and natural gray bare branches in winter.
Last week, I decided to plant 22 hornbeams, Carpinus betulus 'Frans Fontaine,' in my orchard, just outside the north end of my pool - two rows, 11 on each side, creating an allée all the way to the carriage road fence. All the hornbeams are from Select Horticulture, Inc. in Pound Ridge, New York. My gardeners and outdoor grounds crew worked quickly - the area was measured, the holes were dug, and then the trees were transported, positioned, fed, and planted.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
The handsome European hornbeam, Carpinus betulus ‘Frans Fontaine,’ is slow-growing and has an upright oval form and lush green foliage that provides multi-season interest.
I decided to plant them outside the fence surrounding my pool at this end.
Planting any row of specimens always starts with a carefully measured line. Landscape flags indicate where each specimen will go.
Chhiring uses the trusted Kubota and its forklift to transport each tree to its designated location.
All the trees are positioned first before any planting begins.
Alex continues the hole digging started by the backhoe.
Remember the rule of thumb for planting – dig a hole that is two to three times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as the height of the root ball.
The protective wrapping and any wire or rope are removed from the root ball. If left untouched, these wrapping materials could reduce the ability of a tree’s roots to grow out into the surrounding soil. Some gardeners leave them in the ground, but I prefer to remove everything, so there is nothing blocking the root growth.
Alex cuts the strong wire cage, so it can also be removed.
Here is Phurba removing the protective burlap.
Next, fertilizer is sprinkled into the hole and the surrounding soil.
Our go-to fertilizer is Miracle-Gro Organic All Purpose Plant Food specially formulated to help grow stronger, vibrant, and more productive plants.
Each tree is carefully rolled into its hole by its center stem, trunk, or base – never handle by its branches, which could break.
The tree sits in the hole at the right depth, which is “bare to the flare,” or where the first main roots attach to the trunk. Tree roots need oxygen to grow. By placing the root flare at or slightly above ground level when planting gives the tree the best chance for survival, growth, and development.
Pasang and Alex step back and look at the tree from afar to assess its position – they agree it needs a little adjusting.
The two turn the tree slightly to make it level and perfectly straight.
The European hornbeam, Carpinus betulus is native to Western Asia and central, eastern, and southern Europe, including southern England. Because of its dense foliage and tolerance to being cut back, this hornbeam is popularly used for hedges and topiaries. Hornbeams are often confused with the common beech because of their similar leaves; however, the hornbeam leaves are actually smaller and more deeply furrowed than beech leaves. The leaves are deciduous and alternate, with serrated margins. These are the leaves in summer…
… and these are the leaves now, golden yellow in autumn. All the leaves will soon fall completely off the trees for winter.
Once the specimen is positioned correctly, it is backfilled.
Alex uses a hard rake to give the area a finished look.
Here, one row is complete and looks great. These trees are sure to develop so beautifully here in my orchard – the soil is so rich with nutrients.
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