Gael Towey's Guest Blog From Turkey
Last summer, Gael Towey, the Chief Creative and Editorial Director of Living, traveled to Turkey for the first time with her husband, Stephen Doyle, her daughter, Maud Doyle, and her son, August Doyle. Thank you Gael, for sharing these fabulous photos!
Last July, my family and I took an amazing vacation in fascinating Turkey, one of the oldest continuously inhabited regions in the world. We started off in Istanbul, the largest city in Turkey and we stayed at House Hotel Bosphorus in the Ortakoy district. This landmark building offers beautiful views, a great design, and delicious breakfasts. If you like boutique hotels, this is a very hip area with lots of nightclubs and trendy restaurants nearby. The Bosphorus, which separates European and Asian Turkey, is a romantic and beautiful river. We were very fortunate to have the company of Gencay Ucok, who was introduced to us through our friend, Richard Story, the Editor-in-Chief of Departures. Gencay, who is the chef at Meze, in Istanbul, was our guide through this magnificent country. The first monument that Gencay took us to was Haga Sophia, one of the great architectural treasures of the world. In 537, Emperor Justinian, inaugurated Haga Sophia as an orthodox basilica. During the 15th Century, when the Ottomans conquered Istanbul, which was then known as Constantinople, it was converted into a mosque and most of the religious frescos and mosaics were covered over. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey, converted the building into a museum and now you can see the Christian mosaics side-by-side with huge calligraphic roundels in praise of Allah. I hope you’ll enjoy my guest blog.
2 Breakfast at the House Hotel: from left to right - Gencay, Stephen, August, me, Maud, and Antony Doucet from the House Hotel. My favorite breakfast was poached eggs in yogurt with tomato chilli oil - Delicious!
4 You can just see the Virgin and Child mosaic in the center of the dome. The round & square calligraphic paintings are to Allah and the Prophet Mohammed. The massive dome of the cathedral was the largest in the world for one thousand years.
5 Haghia Sophia means Holy Wisdom. This is a 12th-century mosaic of the Virgin and Child flanked by Empress Irene and Emperor Johannes Komenosll.
6 This is the recently restored six-winged Seraphin in Haghia Sophia. The faces had been painted over when the building became a mosque.
7 The Blue Mosque, built in the early 17th-century, takes its name from the brilliant blue and white iznik tiles that line the walls. Every wall has a different design, each one delicate and beautiful.
8 This is Topkapi Palace, the residence of the Ottoman Sultans for 400 years during the mid 15th century. The complex is enormous, with many buildings and pavilions, which serviced the Sultan, his court, and the 4000 people who lived there.
9 Maud standing before beautiful blue iznik tiles, which line many walls with seemingly endless designs
10 The grounds contain kitchens, stables, private family rooms, meeting and ceremonial rooms, the treasury, mosques, libraries, dormitories, and schools.
13 The craftsmanship and beautiful Ottoman designs are ever-changing as you go from one pavilion to another.
19 The Topkapi Palace Archeological Museum - It was great to see the Hellenistic & Roman antique statuary on display in this beautiful late 19th-century building. I especially loved the bust of Alexander the Great.
20 The markets of Istanbul - Dried tomatoes and eggplants hang in the spice market. The eggplant skins are softened and stuffed with delicious rice mixtures.
22 Gencay, our friend and guide, is a chef at the restaurant Meze. He took us to his favorite shops in the spice market. Here’s Maud and August with the spice vendor.
23 We took a ferry across to the Asian side to visit the fish and meat markets. Here’s Gencay surveying the fresh fish. After we made our selection, the café cooked it to order for our lunch.
24 Ayran, a delicious yogurt drink, is served very cold with foam on the top. It’s incredibly refreshing on a hot day.
25 Church of the Saviour, in Chora, has exquisite mosaics created in the 14th century. Here, the Virgin is laid out on a bier with Christ seated behind in a dome of light that comes from the heavens, in this small, intimate church.
26 Mezze restaurant - www.mezze.com.tr - is located across from the Pera Palace Hotel. The dessert, bananas topped with honey, almonds, pistachios, and clotted cream with or without chili sauce was a favorite.
27 Cappadocia is a 90 minute flight from Istanbul. One of the great natural wonders of Turkey, the Conical rocks were formed from volcanic ash and then eroded into fantastic shapes.
28 Originally this tuffa rock was soft enough to carve into cave homes and churches. Early Christians hid in these caves during the Roman period.
29 Maud & August used the carved toe holds to shimmy through a narrow passage & emerge into the 'church terrace. The Goreme Open Air museum, originally a monastic community, is a great way to see these rock churches & homes.
30 Cappadocia hiking trails take you through the spectacular landscape and ancient cave churches to explore along the way.
31 Our hotel in Cappadocia, Esbellu Evi, is a small 'cave hotel,' built by joining 3 cave homes together. It was beautiful and comfortable, with terrific views from the terrace.
32 The best way to see the Cappadocia landscape is from the air. Approximately 75 hot air balloons launch every morning. We used Kapadokya Balloons. The basket of this balloon can hold up to 20 people!
33 Because balloons need to fly under calm wind conditions, we left our hotel at 4:20 AM and were in the air by 6:00, just as the sky began to brighten, with gentle breezes and minimal thermal activity.
35 The 'fairy chimneys' were formed when the soft rock, eroded by wind & water, left the hard rock on top, that looks a bit like a hat.
37 After a gentle touchdown, the crew folded the balloon up into a huge bag. Then playfully, they picked up Maud and some other young women & threw them into the balloon bag.
38 This beautiful stand, with lovely handmade wooden boxes filled with dried fruits and nuts, was at the top of a cliff overlook. Stephen shopped for mulberries, apricots, walnuts, and almonds.
39 The Goreme Open Air Musuem contains the finest rock cut churches from the 10th, 11th, and 12th centuries. The Dark church and the Tolcali church contain amazing frescoes.
40 Ephesus is the world’s largest intact ancient Roman city. The Greek city was built around 1000 BC and was the center of the sea trade. The library of Celcus, built between 114 and 117 BC, is of of the most arresting of all ruins.
42 The city of Bodrum from our hotel, the Marmara - The modern & beautiful hotel is decorated with eccentric art works and great sitting rooms. The shop in the lobby has a well-curated selection of locally made jewelry and clothing.
43 Bodrum has great shooping and restaurants. Maud outside Safran, a great place to buy woven cotton towels in beautiful colors.
44 We rented a boat called a gullet for 5 days sailing from Bodrum harbor to small islands around the Datca Peninsula. Each day we visited quaint fishing villages or walked in ancient ruins, like these in Knidos.
45 We anchored at Knidos in the harbor our first night. Knidos is a Hellenic city famous for its art and culture in 4th Century BC.
46 The gullet, named the MS Nikola, had 4 cabins, but we loved sleeping on the deck under the stars.
48 The houses are painted in bright color combinations and the harbor is lined with cafes and small shops.
51 Swimming and snorkeling was the best, with warm, clear, bright, blue water. We swam in a new cove every day.
53 Martha Stewart Weddings is published in Turkey - With the Weddings team: Elif Sengul - Mktg Mgr, Icim Delemen - Exec Dir, and Nuket Mutlu - the owner of Mutlu Dergi Grubu A.S. (our partners), as well as the boat.
54 Nuket took Stephen and me on a boat ride in Bosphorus. Every home, palace, or embassy along the Asian side of the Bosphorus is enchanting.






Martha & Gael,
I enjoyed this blog, thanks for sharing it.
Posted by: KLBrown | January 23rd, 2012 at 1:29 am
Beautiful! Looks like you had a wonderful trip. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Posted by: Burndett Andres | January 23rd, 2012 at 9:03 am
What a trip of a lifetime! Thank you Gael for sharing your beautiful pictures and commentary with us. How overwhelming it must have been to try to take in the Haga Sophia. I also loved the architectural details of the Topkapi Palace. The markets in Istanbul looked fascinating! I bet the aromas from the spices were incredible. The whole region holds so much history, especially Cappadocia and Ephesus. Thanks again Gael, how special to be able to enjoy this vacation with your husband, son and daughter!
Posted by: Cindy F | January 23rd, 2012 at 9:17 am
Hi Gael, You and your beautiful and handsome family must have had a marvelous time having a vacation in Turkey! I recall seeing Martha's visit to Turkey on this blog posting and on her TV Show and your photos and comments are so fantastic, also! Loved seeing the 2 websites you shared, too! Your wonderful photos made me feel so warm and the weather must have been fabulous! Oh how I wish I could go there, but seeing your wonderful tour is terrific! The colors in so many of those buildings are outstanding! It's easy to see how much all of you enjoyed this trip! Thanks a million, Gael-you are one of Martha's fantastic MSLO partners and I love seeing you on her TV Show whenever possible! Have a great day and tell Martha Hi for me! Jan
Posted by: Jan Erickson | January 23rd, 2012 at 10:23 am
Gael,
Exquisite architecture and cultural artifacts. Did you plan your itinerary or did you have a travel agent do that? I am not an experienced traveler and need some advice on foreign vacationing. Thanks for all!
Posted by: Sandra | January 23rd, 2012 at 11:03 am
Hi Gael,
The Greek island of Simi brings to mind the movie "Mama Mia". Those lovely houses make quite a statement from the water's view and make me want to see their interior. More beautiful of course were the rest of the buildings you photographed. Turkey seemed to have a monopoly on tiles back in the day -Topkapi Palace is a masterpiece with Ottoman architecture and tiles everywhere. I really enjoyed those photos. The walkway at Fisherman’s church is quite an eye catcher too. Imagine the work that went into that – wow! I also like open air markets; they are so colorful and always have interesting things artistically hung all over the place. Thanks so much for sharing your beautiful fun-filled vacation photos with us! I’ve looked through them twice already – the views on the water and from your hotels are fantastic. Trish
Posted by: Trish | January 23rd, 2012 at 11:11 am
Happy to see this on Turkey, a great country to visit and Gael must have loved it, too.
Monica Potter is so great on Hallmark show today. Happy Chinese New Year.
Posted by: ann | January 23rd, 2012 at 11:31 am
The museum store at Topkapi is the best place to buy excellent jewelry and copper work. I have gone several times to Istanbul, walked the bazaar, walked the extensive streets on the periphery of the bazaar, and gone to their finest shopping mall. Even though the prices at Topkapi may look higher than you'd like to pay (not to say it is price prohibitive), you will regret not buying items that catch you eye.
The bazaar in particular goes through waves of tourist-fad items that may may it very difficult for you to find the fine craftsmanship that you will find in the Topkapi museum store.
Posted by: Mary Wright | January 23rd, 2012 at 11:38 am
welcome to turkey
istanbul very nice city,
Posted by: davetiye | January 23rd, 2012 at 11:52 am
Lovely blog post, i enjoyed reading it very much. Hope you will visit again, as there are lots of other magnificent places you would adore.
Best wishes from Istanbul, Turkey.
Posted by: Ezgi | January 23rd, 2012 at 2:08 pm
I think the architecture is what hits me the most. It is so different from what I have experienced in a lifetime here in new england. I think it could inspire design, decorating, landscaping, meals, etc....I think I would have been amazed and pleased at every turn. What a lovely trip.
Posted by: nantucketdaffodil | January 23rd, 2012 at 6:33 pm
The landscape took me aback.. never seen those eroded volcanic rock fascinating.. and the balloom was super cool.
Posted by: Rachel | January 23rd, 2012 at 11:06 pm
Wow!....Wow...Wow. Amazing looking place. Thank you so much for sharing your photos with us.
Posted by: mary frost | January 23rd, 2012 at 11:45 pm
I would love to go to Turkey some day. My son loved the food and the historical places! Thank you for sharing your experience. It's how I would have liked my vacation to be.
Posted by: Maria Reid | January 24th, 2012 at 1:22 am
Turkey's come a long way since my visit in Oct, 75'. Wonderful imagery, great pix, great looking kids, too! I'm going to make a sales cal on them right now.
Posted by: Peter Kendall | January 26th, 2012 at 11:07 am
Benim sevgili ülkem. Dünyanın altın noktası İstanbul. Dilerim herkes ülkemi görme şansına sahip olur.
My dear country. Istanbul, the world's gold point. I hope everyone has a chance to see my country.
Posted by: Emine Şule | March 4th, 2012 at 12:16 pm