More of Eleuthera, an Island Paradise
Yesterday’s blog was all about the fabulous Leon Levy Native Plant Preserve on Eleuthera in the Bahamas. Today, I’d like to share with you some more of what we saw and did on this beautiful island paradise. Eleuthera is 110 miles long and in some places, little more than 1 mile wide. Driving around the island, one sees vast fields, wide pink sandy beaches, and large outcrops of ancient coral reefs. The eastern side faces the Atlantic Ocean and the west looks out onto Exuma Sound. Eleuthera was quite a prosperous island until the 1980s. However, due to changes in foreign-ownership policy and with the Bahamas becoming independent in 1973, all of the large resorts and agricultural businesses have been abandoned, putting a big strain on the population. I am told that unemployment on the island is a shocking 70%. Despite the economic downfall, I found the islanders to be a friendly, lively, and enthusiastic bunch.
1 Waking up at Shelby's house affords one with this beautiful view of the Atlantic Ocean.
2 Down the beach is a great restaurant called Tippy's, where we went for a late lunch one day. These are two refreshing island beers.
3 The conch fritters were the very best I had on the island. Do not tell Shelby's cook I said so! Elaine's are also very good, but these were lighter and fluffier.
4 Tippy's pizzas had thick crusts, but they were tender and very delicious, with toppings of anchovy, olives, capers, and white cheese.
5 The grouper, served fresh (the season had just opened again that day) was lightly battered and fried. It was very clean and delicious, served on fresh arugula from the Island Garden.
6 Another pizza with white cheese, tomato, and sauteed peppers - some sweet, some hot
7 The palapa, an open-sided dwelling with a thatched roof made of dried palm leaves is, island made, of course.
8 Despite grey, cold weather and high winds, we had a delightful time.
9 The dessert I ordered was proclaimed the "best" key lime custard, garnished with caramel and chocolate.
10 We went to visit the Island Farm garden, owned by Annie and Clyde Bethel in Palmetto Point. These coconut trees were laden with fruits. I tried to drink fresh coconut water each day.
11 Island Farm is very prolific and vegetables grow with vigor and great taste. These cherry tomatoes are evidence.
12 The farm also sells native and tropical plants for resident gardens, all very well grown.
13 There is bed after bed filled with edibles and flowers.
14 Without irrigation, and with very little watering, Island Farm manages to grow a lot of produce. Rain water is collected in giant concrete cisterns all over the island, providing water to households and to gardens, as well.
15 Strong and vigorous, Clyde tries to grow as much variety and unique types of vegetables as possible. He is very interested in providing the locals with fresh food.
16 A bed of arugula ready to harvest - Local restaurants buy their fresh greens from the farm, one of several on the 110-mile-long island.
17 Pepper plants were just starting to produce in the rich composted soil.
18 Watering hoses help seedlings get established in this organic garden.
19 Banana peppers are popular in local cuisine and the farm grows many of them.
20 One of the farmers planting tomatoes - three plants together, no supports, and little water - but they grow! Clyde attributes much of the farm’s success to the excellent people who work there.
21 There was a tremendous crop of cherry tomatoes ready to harvest.
22 More sweet tomatoes
23 Another farmer transplanting lettuce from seedlings - Lettuce needs cool temperatures and grows well at the farm in autumn, winter, and early spring.
24 Local fisherman bring their daily catch to piers everywhere along the coast. This man's catch consisted of grouper and lobster.
25 The groupers were large and plump. Each one was priced at $25-$35 each! The lobsters were $25 each!
26 One man bought four groupers for a dinner party.
27 The spiny lobsters made my mouth water.
28 One night we ate at the local Fish Fry in Governors Harbour, Shelby's town.
29 There was grilled pork.
30 There was fried pink snapper.
31 There were all kinds of salads - potato, slaw, macaroni, etc.
32 There was also a booth serving up conch salad. The secret ingredient? An orange Tang-like drink!
33 The conch were extricated from their shells right before each salad was composed.
34 Tomatoes, onions, peppers, lime, celery, orange and "Tang"
35 Mark Daniels, Levy Preserve Manager, gave the salad a big thumbs up!
36 Memrie Lewis dressed up every night. She is standing with one of Shelby's guests, Eric Carey, Executive Director of the Bahamas National Trust.
37 Shelby, in pink, with Brenda Lee Petty and her daughter. Brenda, a gospel singer, wrote the "anthem" for the Levy Preserve.
38 Eric, Shelby, me, Mark, and Dr. Ethan Freid, botanist and adviser to the Leon Levy Native Plant Preserve
39 The pink snappers were marinated and then fried quickly over a wood fire. They were delicious!
40 The chicken was carefully and slowly cooked over wood.
41 The cook turned the chicken and did not burn anything. The barbecue sauce was applied at the end of cooking.
42 This gentleman was the chicken cook.
43 These are bags of marinating pink snappers for the fry. Dinner was priced very modestly at $16.00 a serving - more than one could eat.
44 The pork chops were huge and very nicely cooked.
45 Eleuthera has The Island School, where many American students come to learn about ecology, boating, scuba diving, and marine biology. This group of friendly, earnest students came from the Berkshire School. We saw them again later in the weekend.
46 Berkshire School, located in Sheffield, Massachusetts, has the motto Pro Vita Non Pro Schola Discimus, "Learning not just for school but for life."
47 This sign, in the palapa, caused many comments.
48 Another competitive conch salad creator was discovered in the small settlement of Tarpum Bay. I made everyone stop for conch salad, which they all devoured.
49 This is Avien Morley, the owner of Coco's. He was eloquent about his salad, and rightly so - It was superb!
50 Piles of conch are harvested in the wild and used by Coco's. Each salad costs $10.00 - A real bargain!
51 This is what the complete animal looks like once extricated from its shell house.
52 There is a bit of waste on each conch and the local potcake dogs, a mixed-breed type, love to eat the trimmings.
53 Check out Coco's knife - It's a worn down, well-used machete.
54 These are perfectly trimmed conch ready to be chopped into the salad.
55 Avien's masterful conch salad at Coco's
56 The gang of us eating that great conch salad
57 We went to Lighthouse Beach, which was the highlight of our trip. It's one of the most pristine and extraordinary beaches in the Bahamas. On one side is the Atlantic and on the other side is Exuma Sound. The Bahamas are not in the Caribbean.
58 The ocean has eroded part of the point and it is now a separate small island at the very tip.
59 The waters from the Sound and the Ocean merge right here.
60 The skies were amazing, although we were freezing in the brisk winds.
61 We met those Berkshire School students on Lighthouse Beach.
62 This beautiful sight is where the Exuma Sound and the Atlantic Ocean meet at Glass Window Bridge. Glass Window Bridge, originally the site of an extraordinary natural arch, destroyed in a hurricane, is one of the most impressive sights on Eleuthera.
63 Simply breath-taking!
64 Glass Window Bridge is another tourist attraction and the topography is extraordinary.
65 These rocks, near Glass Window Bridge, are called the cow and the bull, although no one could tell me which was which.
66 Rob and Memrie posed for me on the cliff looking out at the sea.
67 There are vast fields along the highway where huge dairy farms once thrived, providing the islanders with fresh milk, butter, and cream.
68 This is one of many defunct silos from the former dairy farms.
69 more silos
70 We made another stop at La Fleur Farm going north on Queens Highway, the only main road on the island.
71 This gentleman at La Fleur prepared coconuts for us so we could drink the energizing, nutritious coconut water.
72 Judy Steinhardt enjoyed her coconut with Mark Daniels.
73 Marilyn La Fleur recognized me and wished she had one of my books for me to sign.
74 La Fleur Farm does barbecue ribs at night. Too bad we could only taste the coconuts.
75 Another attraction along the northern route is a mile-long underground cavern, a cave that is geologically fantastic. There are stalactites and stalagmites and lots of bats.
76 Another photo of the cave's interior - Unfortunately no one is protecting this extraordinary site and graffiti and vandals have damaged a lot of the interior.
77 More of the cave, which can be explored on one's own, if you happen to be a spelunker.
78 This silk cotton tree was the most magnificent living thing we saw. It's near Tarpum Bay and it must be a national treasure, although I'm not sure about that.
79 The food Elaine made for us at Shelby's house was delicious. Here are grouper fingers, baked potato, island carrots, and farm salad - so good!
80 Elaine also made us guava duff one night, which is tender white bread dough encasing sweet guava fruit. Wrapped in plastic wrap or cloth, the dough is steamed until puffed and cooked. It's served with a crunchy, sugary, rum butter sauce.
Martha Pins
Martha Tweets
You are looking beautiful in pic 60 so that coconut water certainly did the trick. loved seeing Eleuthera's many attractions and food. The person who first discovered conch a delicacy was very smart. what wonderful food from the sea and gardens.
Posted by: ann | March 8th, 2013 at 1:18 am
So enjoyed your photos of Eleuthera....at the Fish Fry ...at Tippys! My family and I spent a wonderful week on Eleuthera just after Xmas to celebrate my special birthday. I grew up in the Bahamas....first lived on Exuma, then Nassau then Freeport. I spent a lovely week walking in my childhood footsteps...oh, and just loved the conch salad, made fresh at the fish fry!
Posted by: Anne | March 8th, 2013 at 6:14 am
What a beautiful island and more importantly what beautiful people!
Thank you Martha for a tour of Eleuthera.
Have a great weekend everyone!
Posted by: Cindy F | March 8th, 2013 at 8:03 am
Martha, loved the video! Great fun too bad you were freezing. Thanks for sharing this blog.
Posted by: KLBrown | March 8th, 2013 at 8:41 am
What a lovely location....and I love the way they sustain themselves with locally grown organic veggies and fresh fish....the way life is supposed to be. We are planting seeds for our organic garden...we love being able to share a fresh, organically grown harvest with friends and neighbors. Everyone should have a small plot of garden....no matter what size!
Posted by: Nantucket Daffodil | March 8th, 2013 at 8:57 am
Hi Martha, Happy Birthday to your sweet, darling granddaughter, Jude who is 2 years old today! This has been such a great week with 3 wonderful birthdays for Laura, Truman, and Jude!!! Sure hope all three of them have been having fun!!! Thank you so much for another fantastic blog where this time you visited much more of the beautiful Bahama Islands again! I absolutely love seeing blogs about your farm and seeing tours of other beautiful places that you visit is outstanding because I've never personally been there and your photos make every place look awesome! These photos are beautiful and It's easy to see that you and your friends had a blast! I also love the website you shared and your video-superb! The Atlantic Ocean , the restaurants, the delicious foods, the dwellings, the farm garden, and the fabulous people that you met are wonderful to see! Those cherry tomatoes, the tropical plants and the gardens are yummy and beautiful! The groupers, lobsters, and conch look great also! Loved photos #36, 37, and 38 of Memrie, Shelby, and you-beautiful!!! Also love photos #45&60 of you and #66 of Memrie again!!! Thanks so much for this awesome blog! Hope you have another great day and weekend especially with your birthday family members!!!! Off to see The Daily Wag about "Paying a Visit to the Donkeys!" Jan
Posted by: Jan Erickson | March 8th, 2013 at 9:17 am
Hi Martha,
Thanks for sharing your fun weekend with us on that interesting island. The food looked great including the conch salad even though I don't eat raw seafood of any kind. Elaine's grouper fingers were more to my liking. I'm amazed how things grow over there with very little water. The tomatoes looked fantastic and so did those bright orange carrots on your dinner plate. It's too bad they don't have dairy farms anymore though. The view from Glass Window Bridge was also amazing - the water looked so beautiful there. Well, enjoy your weekend with your grandchildren. I think you and Alexis mentioned a birthday party for both which sounds like fun. Kids are always fun! Trish
Posted by: Trish | March 8th, 2013 at 9:33 am
Dear Martha,
Thank you for continuing blog-subject!
I've seen many pics of the delicious food you've shared with us over the years...but there is something so appealling about the food - even the beer - here on this amazing Island! (And what a view Shelby and the Foundation have helped to preserve!) Maybe it's because everything tastes better on the beach?
The pizza looks amazing (I almost did a "screen-test)" and so did the keylime dessert! I know what fresh-caught grouper tastes like (almost as good a cobia), and the fried grouper there must be the best on Earth.
I'm just half way through the pics but the beautiful bunch of cherry tomatoes and all of the growing that has been laid down on this ocean strip of sandbar leaves me in awe: 70% unemployment but everyone has food to eat. That speaks loudly for what preservation stands for.
I would love hearing the Levi Preserve's Anthem...Much love shows in pic of the gospel singings artists who wrote anthem; Brenda Lee Petty and daughter, Brenda. Both Brendas and Shelby are beautiful!
I appreciate the inclusion and comment participation. Thank you, Martha and staff, always. (Elaine...Martha's raggin' on your conch fritters!)
Posted by: Tina Y. | March 8th, 2013 at 9:49 am
Martha...That Silk Cotton tree is fascinating! The tree shown yesterday, the one with the unusual trunk formation, might pair well with the Silk Cotton tree in a landscape setting. What was the name of that tree?
I had to laugh the other day when the beautiful, but very itchy...Lantana was mentioned. We used to make cuttings of a variety of Lantanas every year, and our whole family be so itchy from working with them! The Heliotropes would do the same.
The area where Exuma Sound meets the Atlantic is magical. How I would love to witness it's activity! On a less windy day, I would camp out there just to watch and listen...sipping on coconut water the whole weekend!
The students photos reveal the youth at their best...what a terrific opportunity for these youngsters. They will be thankful for every minute spent there now, and will share these lovely times for the rest of their lives, I'm sure!
Thank you for giving us the chance to appreciate these wonderful adventures!
Barbara
Posted by: Barbara Mayer | March 8th, 2013 at 10:19 am
Just love this post, Martha! Eleuthera is very close to my heart and you captured so much of its wonderful beauty and character. My daughter and her husband own a house in the Rainbow Bay area and spend a lot of time there. We love to visit the Island Farm and Governor's Harbor, and the beautiful secluded beaches.
So happy you were able to enjoy so much during your visit.
Posted by: Marcia | March 8th, 2013 at 11:06 am
Good Morning Martha,
What a beautiful place. A person could get lost in those horizons, so grand and so relaxing. And, the cherry tomatoes! Delicious.
Posted by: Cindy M | March 8th, 2013 at 11:32 am
Hi Martha, I follow you on twitter from Scotland. I went to Eleuthera in 2008 with 9 other people and we had an amazing time and your photographs brought back very happy memories. Unfortunately my husband and are the only couple who are still together but memories are memories ànd our time on that island was magical. Fiona xx
Posted by: Fiona Guthrie | March 8th, 2013 at 11:46 am
Dear Martha,
Who would even think that there would be caves!? ...very masjestic and very old. Most unfortunate that they are 'unprotected'. Hope the caves will become part of some preservaton effort.
It is very encouraging to learn that students, like the great group you met up with from The Berkshire School, are getting this exposure...it is so hopeful and inspiring to see curious, passionate young people! (Love their photos, and the group pic with you. Smiles don't get much bigger than that!)
But back to the food...and there is so much of it! It's literally falling off the trees! I remember how you love coconut juice. I'm curious: is the fried fish mealed in cracker meal? It appears so. Big wave to The Chicken Cook, The Pork Chop Cook, and I will always wonder what Coco's BBQ would have been like...but we can pretty much guess! Elaine; your delicious offerings were the last few photos displayed in the pics...saving the best for last!
I love the Bahamas! Thank you, again, for all of this! And ''thank you", all of Martha's friends!
Posted by: Tina Y. | March 8th, 2013 at 12:13 pm
We just got back from a 2 week trip in Eleuthera. What an amazing island full of wonderful people, beautiful scenery and excellent food. I loved looking at your pictures. It seems we may have been at the fish fry on the same night. This was my 5th year going to the island and I'll definitely keep going back each year.
Posted by: Bobette | March 8th, 2013 at 1:33 pm
I always feel energized after viewing your Blog, Martha! The gathering of posters are a great bunch, too!
The Northeast is ready for a warm spell this weekend! Let's have a dose of spring fever, and enjoy!
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0f/Boraginaceae00.jpg
Posted by: Barbara Mayer | March 8th, 2013 at 3:07 pm
Ha! Dear Martha,
Pic. #47, the sign in the palapa, "World Famous Rum Bubbas"?, which I can see from the signage that 'rum bubbas' must be the Bohemian equivlant to Americas 'Hooters'? HmhummHa!? The photos caption also said that there were many comments about the sign. Funny, but no one has commented here about the rum buddas?
I was busy taking virtual tour of LevyPreserve.org and began looking to ID the tree with no name. Where were you Martha!? I ended up somewhere in a cactus patch! and Lo and Behold! another educational sign!!!: "The Cacti trail lies in the flattest part of the Broad leafed coppice forest at The Preserve. Here you will find we have four different species including the endemic Bahama Dildo." ...so much for my boatnical Latin lesson today! Haaaaa!
Have a happy weekend all!
Posted by: Tina Y. | March 8th, 2013 at 3:15 pm
Martha,
Beautiful photos...the beach & food look great and I want those tomatoes! How fun!
Posted by: @ellepiari | March 8th, 2013 at 3:35 pm
Happy Birthday! to both of your beautiful grandchildren this month!; Jude! and Truman! And a belated wish to your sister Laura!, too!
Posted by: Tina Y. | March 8th, 2013 at 4:44 pm
Hello Martha,
My husband and I were married on Ten Bay beach and had a wonderful 10-day honeymoon on Eleuthera in 2008. We rented a house on the Atlantic side of the island and spent the entire time exploring. What great photos and it brought back so many memories! We went to the produce farm, had lunch at Tippy's, went to the fish fry, explored a cave in a pineapple field - visited all of the spots that you captured so beautifully! Following our trip I have even attempted conch fritters and conch salad here at home - and I must say with pretty good results! It is truly a breathtaking island. Thank you for taking me back! I hope to go back myself again soon...
Posted by: Lorri | March 8th, 2013 at 5:44 pm
Beautiful place, I would love to visit. Love your pics and enjoyed the video and recipe. Have a wonderful weekend
Posted by: Rowaida Flayhan | March 8th, 2013 at 6:14 pm
Wonderful articles on Eleuthera. We've been there 8 or 9 times. You must not have visited The Island School,or you would have written about it. Started, maybe 15 years ago, by staff from an eastern private school (I'm from Michigan, hence "eastern") it offers a one semester stay for Juniors. The curriculum is based on the sea. The theory is that the students will eventually be leaders in business and government and will, as a result of the semester in Eleuthera, be advocates for our oceans. Students learn to scuba, do an Outward Bound type solo kayak trip, do serious scientific research and grow much of their own food. it is a life changing few months. Check out The Island School website for your children or grandchildren.
Posted by: Dave Smethurst | March 8th, 2013 at 9:34 pm
My wife and I have been visiting the "Out Island" for several years and Eleuthera is one of our favorites. I can recall no other island destinations where we developed relationships with locals. They always seem so grateful for our visits. Their life is not always easy but they are so open and gracious.
There is a lot of room for development. Lighthouse Point should NOT be included. It must be preserved as it is. There is currently an effort to preserve it as one of the most beautiful and unspoiled places on earth. Maybe you can help?
Posted by: Paul Ingram | March 9th, 2013 at 8:21 am
that is my husband grilling in the blue shirt.
Posted by: Margaret Seymour | March 9th, 2013 at 3:44 pm
Can't wait to see pix of the Elmo party you planned! I know it was just adorable!!
Posted by: Lynne | March 9th, 2013 at 6:57 pm
Conch are not very appetizing in appearance but the prepared salad looks delicious! I would be tempted to surprise Coco with a new knife!
Posted by: Jayne | March 10th, 2013 at 7:24 am
I loved the addition of video! That salad looked amazing!
Posted by: Karen | March 10th, 2013 at 10:27 am
We visited the island after Sandy hit. It was still beautiful and the people so friendly. Tippy's was great. Spent time with our daughter who was working at the Island School, an inovative school showing all of us how we can live and not ruin the land. the Glass Bridge was amazing..., Hatchett Bay cave, too. We explored 2 other caves and beaches. So many great sights, enjoyed your pictures, relived our trip through them.
Posted by: Suzanne and Jim Fleming | March 11th, 2013 at 3:45 pm
Martha,
Thank you for sharing your trip and pictures to Eleuthera. We are taking our first trip there in April. I have been scouring the web for content about the island. You offered every subject I have been looking for!
Thank you so much for your efforts to enlighten!
Posted by: Diana Franklin | March 12th, 2013 at 1:16 am
Dear Martha,
Thanks for the beautiful photos and video, I love conch salad so good for the body with all the fresh tomatoes, green lime and pepper!
Today we have beautiful sunshine in The Bahamas, I'm happy!
Come back soon!
Best regards
Flo
accessorizeit247.com
Posted by: Flo Miller | March 12th, 2013 at 8:33 pm
Watching that video made me smile so bright. We . My family has owned a home there for years and the conch salad is one of my favorite dishes on the island!! It is such a sacred place. Thanks for sharing!
Posted by: Courtney Lambeth | March 13th, 2013 at 3:23 pm
Just came back from Eleuthera on the 12th. We were treated to Conch Fritters made by a local resident in Current Settlement in North Eleuthera where few tourists seem to venture. Beaches and bone fishing are the big draw there. By the way the weather did improve and was quite warm even if there was a strong breeze at times after the 8th. Always a beautiful island that is fun to visit.
Posted by: Lea Springer | March 14th, 2013 at 2:54 pm
Hi Martha my neice and i enjojed meeting you, i'm pleased that you've enjoyed your visit here to Eleuthera.music is one of my greatest passions, i was happy to share that song i've written with you, about the Leon Levy preserve, i was pleased Mr's white allowed me too.
Posted by: Brendalee Petty | March 18th, 2013 at 5:53 pm
Hello Martha,
Thanks for all the wonderful photos and comments on the Bahamas, we love the Bahamas and you!
Good looking Conch salad!
Flo Miller
accessorizeit247.com
Posted by: flo Miller | March 27th, 2013 at 9:18 am
I am fortunate enough to live in Tarpum Bay three months of the year. I rehabbed a house built in 1828 right in the midst of the settlement. My builder is the great grandson of the original owner. He, like many in Eleuthera does two or three things well: construction, fishing, making conch salad and small motor repairs.
He and his wife and grandchildren are a second family for me. Eleuthera is a wonderful island, unspoiled with friendly, generous people. I live in Traverse City, MI the rest of the year: how very fortunate I am to be able to experience two wonderful cultures and places. Thank you for highlighting your Eleutheran experiences. Come back!
Posted by: Lynn Larson | April 2nd, 2013 at 9:09 pm
Martha - Coco's is in Rock Sound, not Tarpum Bay. Just don't want others who visit the island to not enjoy Coco's conch salad as well.
Posted by: Conc | April 16th, 2013 at 5:52 pm