Planting Bur Oak Trees
My Bedford, New York farm continues to transform with the planting of many beautiful and interesting trees.
Trees are very important to our environment - they help combat climate change, provide habitat and food for birds and other animals, and release oxygen for us to live. Yesterday, my crew planted a group of bur oak trees, Quercus macrocarpa - two rows along the outsides of the boxwood allee, one on the left and one on the right. They will grow so nicely here, and provide beautiful texture and shade when mature.
Here are some photos.
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- The bur oak, Quercus macrocarpa, commonly spelled burr oak, is a species of oak tree native to eastern North America. It is also called mossycup oak, mossycup white oak, blue oak, or scrub oak. Here’s Ryan driving a load of bur oaks in our new 2021 Polaris Ranger Crew XP 1000 NorthStar Edition. I love these Polaris vehicles – they are perfect for riding around the farm, loading and unloading equipment, plants and trees, and for getting into tight spaces where larger vehicles cannot go. These are also perfect off-road – durable yet light enough so they don’t damage any grass. These are so vital here at the farm – we use them every day.
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- The leaves of the bur oak are easy to identify. They are alternate, simple, six to 12 inches long, roughly obovate in shape, with many lobes. The two middle sinuses nearly reach the midrib dividing leaf nearly in half. The lobes near the tip resemble a crown, green above and paler, fuzzy below.
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- And the bark of the bur oak is dark gray, rough, and deeply ridged.
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- I decided to plant the bur oaks between the paddock fencing and the boxwood allee on both sides.
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- I wanted them about one foot from the fence posts, so I could still drive my Polaris off-road vehicle through the area.
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- Domi begins to dig the holes. He is a fast and strong digger. Each hole is about 10 to 12 inches deep.
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- These holes are also quite wide – one should be at least two to five times as wide as the root ball. The hole sides should be slanted and the hole should be no deeper than the root ball is tall, so it can be placed directly on undisturbed soil. Digging a wide planting hole helps to provide the best opportunity for roots to expand into its new growing environment.
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- Then Pasang follows behind to plant each tree previously positioned in its proper location. There is one tree every third post, so about 15 to 18 feet apart.
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- Pasang then pulls out the tree and inspects the roots. He scarifies the root ball and loosens up the roots to stimulate growth. This is very important to do, especially if the roots are densely bound in a circular pattern or have started growing in the shape of the container. These specimens have healthy roots, so only a light scarifying is needed with one’s pruners.
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- Each specimen is planted to the same height as it was in the pot. Pasang places the tree into the hole making sure it is at the right depth. He also looks at the tree’s foliage and turns the tree so its main branches point sideways so they are not in the way of passing Polaris vehicles or horses.
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- A scoop of good fertilizer is then sprinkled on the surrounding soil. Always feed! My soil is filled with nutrients, but I still make sure everything is well fed. Often, plants can’t get all the necessary nutrients from garden soil alone, so they need a boost from extra soil amendments.
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- Pasang tamps down to pack the soil around the plant roots. This ensures good soil to root contact and eliminates air pockets that could otherwise result in dead roots.
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- When planting trees, look for the root collar or root flare – the bulge just above the root system where the roots begin to branch away from the trunk. The root flare should be just above the soil surface.
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- Here is Chhiring with the bamboo stakes. I feel it is important to stake every tree, so it is well supported and well-marked as it develops.
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- Chhiring places a tall bamboo stake next to every tree.
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- Because these trees are so tall, we use bamboo stakes to secure the trees. Bamboo comes in a variety of lengths and is easy to find at garden supply stores. These stakes are also very light and easy to cut if needed because they are hollow.
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- Chhiring drives the stake at least a foot into the ground several inches away from the newly planted tree.
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- All the ties are made of jute twine. Chhiring cuts all the twine to the same size so nothing is wasted. And, we double the twine to provide added security in case of strong winds.
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- Chhiring ties the twine in three places – this will ensure the tree is well supported and directed as it grows.
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- I always teach every member of the crew to twist the twine before knotting, so the tree or vine or cane is not crushed or strangled. Each piece is tied just tight enough to keep the tree secure, but not break it.
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- The bur oaks will look so terrific in this area. These trees are among the largest and longest-lived hardwood trees reaching a mature height of 50 to 80 feet and a crown spread of 40 to 60 feet.
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- At the other end of the paddocks in a grassy area not far from my grove of Metasequoia is a stand of older, more mature bur oaks. Look at the wide, open crown. These trees are so stately. When fully mature, with their massive trunks, support heavy, horizontal limbs.
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- The bur oaks are planted just in time. Looking up above the allee and stable are the clouds rolling in before a night of heavy rains. These new trees will be well watered. I hope this inspires you to plant a tree or two around your home this weekend. Planting trees – they’re a very good thing.
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