My Growing Garden Maze
The garden maze at my Bedford, New York farm is becoming more and more intriguing with each planted row of greenery.
As many of you know, I decided to take on this fun project earlier this year. I wanted to create a maze of interesting hedges, espaliers and shrubs in the pasture across the carriage road from my Winter House terrace. I started with European beech, European hornbeams, boxwood, and a variety of espaliered apple trees. I designed the maze with different plantings to add texture and interest. All of these specimens will grow tall enough to prevent walkers from seeing the paths ahead. And each row will branch off with various pathway options and dead ends - with only one correct route to the center. Most recently, my gardeners and outdoor grounds crew planted a row of Persian parrotia or Persian ironwood.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
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- For my maze, I chose this paddock located just outside my Winter House, where I could see it from my terrace parterre. I knew it was the perfect space for this garden of trees and shrubs.
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- Earlier this summer, we planted the first rows. They included European beech, European hornbeam, boxwood, and a variety of espaliered apple trees.
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- Most recently, we cleared the next row earmarked for Parrotia trees. The row was measured and then the sod was removed. I never like to waste anything around the farm. I always try to repurpose and reuse as much as possible, so the sections of sod are replanted in grassy areas that have gotten bare over time.
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- Next, we tilled the soil with our Troy-Bilt Pony Rear-Tine Tiller. Rototilling is one method of turning up the soil before planting. All the plants and trees do very well here at the farm, in part because of the excellent soil. I have worked very hard to ensure my soil is constantly amended and rich with nutrients. If you are unsure of your soil’s quality, have it tested. Kits are available at garden shops, online, and through your area’s cooperative extensions.
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- Then, each hole is dug. Remember the rule of thumb for planting trees – dig a hole that is two to three times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as the height of the root ball.
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- Here is one of the holes – it is almost a foot deep and the sides are slightly sloped with the widest part at the top.
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- In assembly line process, each tree is placed into a designated hole, still in its pot. This way, we can make sure there are enough holes for each tree and all of them are lined up perfectly.
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- The next day was all for planting. Each Parrotia was removed from its pot and positioned into its new hole with the best side facing the path.
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- I always say, “if you eat, so should your plants.” For all of these, we’re using Roots fertilizer with mycorrhizal fungi, which helps transplant survival and increases water and nutrient absorption.
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- The fertilizer is made of insoluble granules that release nutrients as it biodegrades.
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- Each Parrotia is carefully backfilled. Another rule is “bare to the flare” meaning only plant up to the flare, where the tree meets the root system.
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- Here is the row all planted – every tree lined up straight. Parrotia persica is in the family Hamamelidaceae, closely related to the witch-hazel genus Hamamelis. It is native to northern Iran and southern Azerbaijan and it is endemic in the Alborz mountains. It grows best in USDA Zones 5 to 8.
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- All the pots are saved for planting other young trees – never throw away these containers, they come in very handy.
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- Some of the leaves are already changing colors. Parrotias have a long-lasting, elaborate autumn color display of ever-changing leaves that show off yellow, orange, burgundy and red hues.
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- The bed is then covered with mulch, made right here at the farm. We love using these Scenic Road wheelbarrows – they’re big and very sturdy.
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- Brian spreads an even layer of mulch – about two to three inches – under the trees. And then gives the entire bed a good drink of water.
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- Here is a row of growing boxwood. I think it is looking so beautiful already. Five rows in all to start, but many, many to go, and each path leading to an opening — or a dead end.
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- Here are the espalier trees. Espalier refers to an ancient technique, resulting in trees that grow flat, either against a wall, or along a wire-strung framework. Many kinds of trees respond beautifully to the espalier treatment, but fruit trees, like apple and pear, were some of the earliest examples. Espaliered trees can grow between four and eight feet apart – enough to allow them room as they grow, but still be close enough for a proper espalier. Among the apples are Liberty apples, Gala apples, Braeburn apples, and Yellow Delicious apples.
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- For a maze, it’s best to use relatively fast-growing trees that will be at least six feet tall and two feet wide at maturity.
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- In time, this area will be a spectacular field of puzzling pathways. I am having such a good time designing this living maze. Follow this blog and watch the transformation with me.
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