Planting Evergreens in the Pinetum
Planting evergreens is a great way to add color and texture in the garden, attract wildlife, and help clean and purify the air.
Here at my farm, I have an area I call my pinetum. It's an arboretum of pine trees and other conifers I developed soon after I moved to the property. The trees and shrubs have grown extremely well here, and I continue to plant additional specimens every year. Earlier this week, I purchased a beautiful selection of evergreens from Hardscrabble Farms in North Salem, New York. Among them - a variety of interesting pines, junipers, spruces, and cypresses. Once they arrived, I chose where they would be planted and the crew got to work.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
- I am always looking for ways to add more beauty and texture to all my garden beds. One area that is constantly evolving is my pinetum – an arboretum of pine trees and other conifers.
- For me, it’s always so exciting to go to a nursery, pick out interesting specimens, and bring home a new selection of plants for the farm.
- Once I get them home, the plants are unloaded right away. This is a very healthy juniper. Its upright growth habit and beautiful color make it a great addition to any garden.
- I am happy to place them in their approximate planting positions. My gardeners will also check each individual plant’s space and light needs and adjust accordingly. This is a Picea glauca ‘pendula,’ or weeping white spruce.
- Phurba starts by digging the hole at least twice the size of the plant.
- I always instruct my team to fill the hole with water first before planting. This is a good idea even when the ground is already saturated from recent storms.
- Filling the hole with water helps settle any loose soil, eliminate air pockets, hydrate the soil around the root ball to encourage roots to spread, and minimizes stress to the tree when it is newly transplanted.
- Matthew sprinkles a generous amount of food into the hole and mixes it with the existing wet soil. Remember what I always say, “if you are eating and drinking today, so should your plants.”
- I use Miracle-Gro Organic All Purpose Plant Food. It’s good for both outdoor container and in-ground plants and feeds for up to three-months.
- Phurba removes the protective wrapping and any wire or rope from the root ball. If left untouched, these wrapping materials could reduce the ability of a tree’s roots to grow out into the surrounding soil.
- Some leave wire and burlap in place; however, I prefer to remove everything, so there is nothing preventing root development.
- Here is the pile of wrapping from just one tree.
- Phurba and Matthew rotate the tree on its root ball closer to the hole and then into it. When moving heavy trees, only hold it by the root ball and the base of the trunk – never by its branches, which could easily break.
- Phurba turns the tree turn the tree until it is stable in the hole and sitting at the proper depth. He also makes certain the best side of the tree is facing out toward the carriage road.
- Matthew gives it more water. And remember, it is crucial to “plant bare to the flare,” meaning do not bury above its flare, where the first main roots attach to the trunk. The roots need oxygen to grow. By placing the root flare at or slightly above ground level when planting gives the specimen the best chance for survival and growth.
- Phurba backfills the tree, tamps down to establish good contact between the root ball and the soil, and then rakes the area, so it is neat and tidy.
- It will thrive in this area under the partial shade of my weeping willows.
- I decided these two cypress trees would look great near each other with their lush green foliage.
- This shrub is Pinus mugo “Sherwood Compacta.” Mugo pines are conifers with dark green needles on dense branches. They’re slow growing and need no pruning to maintain its unique growth habit.
- These evergreen trees and shrubs are young and small now, but they will thrive here and fill out this pinetum garden so nicely.









