This time of year, my grove of Japanese maples is ablaze with autumn color, displaying a palette of brilliant yellows, glowing oranges, and rich reds.
Many of these trees are varieties of Acer palmatum, a species that has been cultivated in Japanese gardens for centuries. Over the years, I’ve planted an extensive collection in a section of my shade garden, not far from my chicken coops and tropical hoop houses. This garden was planted in honor of my late sister, Laura Plimpton, who was especially fond of Japanese maples. Each fall, I look forward to seeing them put on their spectacular display. With their remarkable diversity of sizes, leaf shapes, and colors, these beautiful specimens create a landscape full of texture and visual interest that only becomes more stunning with each passing year.
Enjoy these photos.
Every year, all of us here at my farm wait for this woodland to burst with color. Few trees are as beautiful as the Japanese maple. With more than a thousand varieties and cultivars including hybrids, the iconic Japanese maple tree is among the most versatile small trees for use in the landscape.
Japanese maples are native to areas of Japan, Korea, China, and Russia. In Japan, the maple is called the “autumn welcoming tree” and is planted in the western portion of gardens – the direction from which fall arrives there.
The contrast between the colors in this grove is stunning.
But the brilliant fall colors aren’t a guarantee. The colors are a result of climate, weather, and environmental conditions. Here in the Northeast, fall weather usually arrives in September, with temperatures cooling off rapidly at night even when the days are still warm. These cool nighttime temperatures trigger the leaf-changing process. Unusually warm early fall weather may even prevent the leaves from turning red. This is because the color changes occur with gradually cooling temperatures – not cold snaps.
Leaf color best develops when nighttime temperatures remain above freezing but below 45-degrees Fahrenheit. A sudden cold snap could turn the leaves more plum-brown seemingly overnight, skipping the vibrantly orange and red stage altogether. Weather here at the farm has been excellent for the Japanese maples this season.
Red leafed cultivars are the most popular, followed by green shrubs with deeply dissected leaves.
I also have more rare varieties. These leaves are deeply divided, but each lobe is also dissected, giving them a lacy effect.
Japanese maples are divided into categories based on their distinct leaf structures. Among them is palmate, which is the classic maple-shaped leaves with bold lobes. Another is dissectum characterized by deeply cut, feathery foliage. Atropurpureum contains some of the most recognizable Japanese maples that are upright with deeply lobed red leaves containing “five fingers.” There are also variegated varieties with multi-colored leaves. There are 17 different groups in all.
The leaves range from about an inch-and-a-half to four-inches long and wide with five, seven, or nine acutely pointed lobes.
Japanese maple forms also vary. They can be weeping, rounded, dwarf, mounding, upright, or cascading.
Japanese maples typically grow about one-foot per year for the first 50-years and can live to be more than a hundred.
Any heavy pruning should be done in late winter before leaf buds begin to open. Cut out scraggly interior twigs and branches, but leave the structural branches alone. Small, corrective cuts can be made any time of year. If I can, I like to prune and groom these Japanese maples myself.
Japanese maple trees are particularly suitable for borders and ornamental paths because their root systems are compact and not invasive. Through this woodland grove, they line both sides of my carriage road.
They can withstand very cold temperatures, but in summer, they should be watered deeply during dry spells and cut back in late summer to intensify the autumn color.
As young trees grow, their colors become even more vibrant. It’s exciting to see how they develop through the seasons – many have such interesting growth habits.
With the right conditions, the fall colors of the Japanese maple may last for several weeks. Unfortunately, as it gets colder, the colors begin to dull.
These trees are hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 8 and thrive in slightly acidic, well-draining soil.
If growing in containers in colder zones, allow the plants to go fully dormant outside and then bring them into an unheated garage or other sheltered, cool area. In warmer zones, place them in a shaded location where they can be protected from drying winds.
The best location is a sunny spot with afternoon shade. Red and variegated leaves need relief from hot afternoon sun in summer but need the light to attain full color.
I purposely planted my Japanese maples beneath larger trees. The varying heights and layers make the grove so much more interesting. I love this woodland and continue to add more and more Japanese maples to this collection. If you can, stop and enjoy the magnificent colors of the Japanese maples where you live.
A beautiful, mature Japanese maple tree is now planted in its new home here at my farm.
Last week, I had the opportunity to rescue a lovely tree from a nearby property where the new owner was planning to redesign the landscape. Relocating such an established specimen required careful planning and a slow, precise process, but it was well worth the effort. The tree is now happily settled in its new spot beside my pond, where I hope it will continue to thrive.
Enjoy these photos.
Remember the Japanese Maple tree I moved from a nearby home? Here it is arriving at my farm, intact and well-protected with burlap, straps, and ropes.
Underneath the burlap, all the branches are also in excellent condition – not one broke during the entire moving part of the process.
The hole was dug the day before. It is all ready in the exact location I specified.
Here, the burlap cover is removed.
Chains are wrapped around the root ball, so it can be carried the rest of the way to the hole.
Chains are also secured to the bucket of a tractor and then connected to the chain around the tree’s root ball.
This allows the Hi-Lo and the bucket to work together in lifting the tree and carrying it to its permanent spot.
Slow and steady underneath the trees.
Meanwhile, a new layer of compost is dropped into the hole. I am so fortunate to be able to make all this compost right here at my farm.
The compost is spread evenly in the hole to adjust for the proper depth.
And here comes the tree. It is now at the edge of the hole ready to be dropped in. The crew selects the best side to face out to the road.
The tree is lowered and checked for proper positioning. It is crucial for the tree’s longterm health and stability to be planted just right. Too deep could suffocate the roots – too shallow and the roots could be exposed and dry out.
Phurba begins to remove the twine wrapped around the root ball.
The team removes the burlap from around the root ball. Once it is removed from the sides, they carefully pull it out from under the root ball. Some gardeners prefer to leave the burlap in place, but I always remove all the wrapping to ensure there is nothing blocking the tree’s natural root growth.
Phurba mixes fertilizer with the existing soil and additional compost placed around the tree’s base.
I use Miracle-Grow All Purpose Plant Food. This feeds the tree above and below the soil for three months.
Then the tree is thoroughly watered…
Especially close to the tree’s trunk down to the roots.
The leaves of this Japanese maple are changing. All Japanese maples, Acer palmatum, are deciduous, meaning they shed their leaves annually.
Japanese maple trees display a wonderful array of autumn colors, from bright yellow and orange to fiery red, before naturally dropping their leaves for the winter.
Japanese maples grow slowly, but they can live more than a hundred years. It looks perfect in this spot near my pond.
I am looking forward to seeing this tree develop and flourish here at Cantitoe Corners.
Japanese maples have always been among my favorite trees - I’ve planted many over the years.
Recently, a friend told me about a beautiful, old Japanese maple at a neighboring property that needed a new home. The house had just been sold, and the new owner planned to redesign the landscape. After seeing the tree, I knew I wanted to transplant it here at my farm, where it could continue to thrive. Moving a mature specimen was no small undertaking. Removing it from the ground and transporting it required careful planning, ingenuity, and strength, but it was well worth the effort.
Enjoy these photos.
This Japanese maple is a beautiful specimen tree. It’s in excellent condition at more than 80-years old. I knew it would look wonderful at my farm.
Few trees are as beautiful as the Japanese maple. With more than a thousand varieties and cultivars including hybrids, the iconic Japanese maple tree is among the most versatile small trees for use in the garden.
The first step is digging it out of the ground. The crew spends time carefully digging the soil from around the tree.
Rope is tied around the trunk of the tree and secured at two points, so the root ball does not move.
We had my trusted Hi-Lo transported to the location to help with the removal process. This is a strong machine and can handle the weight of the tree.
Meanwhile, an excavator digs a level area for the Hi-Lo near the tree.
The root ball of the Japanese maple is wrapped in burlap and tied with twine. This process is known as balling and burlapping. It is an important part of the process because it protects the root system, maintains soil integrity, and greatly improves the tree’s survival chances after transplantation.
The Hi-Lo’s fork is carefully placed next to the root ball.
Straps are attached to the rootball to keep it even more secure as it moves.
Next, chains are also secured around the root ball, so it can be supported from above. Don’t always rely on ropes or straps, which could break in the process. Chains are a good option.
A few minutes later, the six to eight thousand pound tree is lifted to higher ground.
Look how beautiful this Japanese maple is – in form and in size.
Chhiring, who is driving the Hi-Lo, and Norman, who is controlling the excavator, move slowly across the lawn. It is being supported from the top and bottom.
It doesn’t take long to move it to the waiting trailer, but it does take care and skill to move it through tight spaces, under branches, together at the same speed, so the tree moves safely.
Here is Chhiring showing the root ball. A tree’s root ball should generally be eight to 12 inches of diameter per inch of the trunk’s caliper, with depth at about 75% of that same diameter.
Using the machines, the tree is carefully moved onto the trailer.
Here it is getting strapped into the trailer bed for the ride to its new home.
For safety, the entire tree is covered before leaving the property.
The branches are now well-protected.
Here’s Norman making the last adjustments before moving.
It is now covered, properly secured, and ready for its short ride to my farm. Stay tuned for my next blog when I show where it is planted.
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