Planting a Strawberry Patch
If you enjoy gardening and working outdoors - and can do it safely - step out, get some fresh air, and start tending those spring gardens.
All of us here at my Bedford, New York farm have been very busy - we’ve already planted some seeds in the vegetable garden, and last week, we created a new bed just for strawberries. Homegrown strawberries are so tasty and among the easiest berries to grow. They are cold-hardy and adaptable and can be planted in both garden beds and containers.
Enjoy these photos.
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- Strawberries prefer to be in full sun, and well-drained, well-established, nutrient-rich soil, so we planted the strawberry patch in front of my main greenhouse in a spot between my raspberry bushes and my formal lily garden. This area was cleared of any rocks, weeds and other debris to prepare the area for tilling.
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- This is my new Kubota model M7060HD12 tractor – a vehicle that gets lots of use at the farm every day. It is used for pulling or pushing agricultural machinery or trailers, for plowing, tilling, transporting and so much more. Here, it is used to transport a bucket load of composted manure for the garden bed.
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- Phurba drops small wheelbarrow loads of compost along the center of the patch. The compost is made right here in one of the back fields of the farm.
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- Phurba spreads a generous two to three-inch layer over the existing soil. Compost helps make the soil more absorbent and is a great way to add nutrients back into the earth. It is also a good way to ensure big, bountiful crops.
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- I always rototill the beds before I plant them. Rototilling is one method of turning up the soil. Regular tilling over time can improve the soil structure. This Troy-Bilt “Big Red” model has an adjustable tilling depth of up to seven inches.
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- As he moves, Phurba makes sure to overlap his passes slightly, so every bit of soil is covered. Tilling also helps to level the ground as it turns over the soil. Only rototill when the ground is moist, but not wet – the soil should still crumble when picked up.
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- On rear-tine tillers like this, wheels are standard operating equipment. This has a 20-inch tilling width and a 12-inch tine diameter. The tires on this tiller are 16-inch agricultural tires with great tread for moving through the bed. It doesn’t take long for Phurba to till the entire area.
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- Ryan sprinkles a generous amount of fertilizer to the soil. This is best done when there is little to no wind.
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- Next, Phurba uses markers and jute twine to mark the garden’s edge and each of the raised beds so everything is aligned perfectly.
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- Phurba runs the twine from one end to the other. On this side, Phurba makes sure there is enough space between the strawberry patch and the adjacent raspberries.
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- In my gardens, I try to use every bit of space for planting, but it is important to plan the space for when the plants are mature and most productive.
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- From safe distances, Ryan and Phurba measure the space horizontally and plan how wide each bed will be. We have four different strawberry varieties, so there will be four separate rows.
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- Ryan then inserts stakes marking the position for each bed and each footpath.
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- Measurements are taken several times to ensure every bed is even.
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- Next, Phurba rakes the soil until the area is level.
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- Using a simple spade and the twine as a guide, Phurba begins to create the raised beds. He removes some of the soil to create the footpath separating the sections. The footpaths in between each bed are only as wide as the spade. The raised beds will warm more quickly in and maintain better aeration and drainage for the plants.
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- Phurba works lengthwise from one end to the other. Slowly, each bed begins to form.
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- Here is another view showing the footpaths and each bed. Phurba is careful to make neat, rounded mounds, so the strawberry runners have room. The newly made paths are just enough for walking, weeding, and harvesting.
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- Here, Phurba walks each of the footpaths to ensure the soil is compacted.
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- When building raised beds, be sure every part can be reached without standing on it. Let this be a number one “ground” rule – never step on the soil within raised beds.
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- Here are the finished beds – all straight and ready for planting.
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- This year, all our strawberries came from Gurney’s Seed & Nursery Company – a mail-order seed and garden plant facility based in Greendale, Indiana. The varieties we planted include ‘Strawberry Fort Laramie,’ ‘Strawberry Honeoye,’ ‘Strawberry Ozark Beauty,’ and ‘Strawberry Sparkle Supreme.’
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- Planting strawberries at the right depth is important – if the crown is buried, the plant could easily rot. Be sure to plant dormant strawberry transplants in spring as soon as the soil is warm enough to garden. Holes should be large enough to accommodate the roots without bending them. Strawberries need at least eight to 10-hours of full sun each day and slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.8.
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- Many varieties of strawberries send out numerous runners throughout the season and fill in the space between plants, so it’s important to give them ample room – about 12 to 18 inches apart. These strawberries will do great in this garden – I can’t wait to harvest these delicious summer fruits.
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