My dogs are groomed and checked for ticks and fleas every day. I have always been a firm believer in regular brushing and bathing - every couple weeks for the dogs, and about once a month for my cats. Yesterday was bath time for my gorgeous Chow Chows, Empress Qin and Emperor Han. I actually love to do this task myself when I am home, but since I was away on a business trip, Carlos was happy to do the job. When bathing pets, it’s important to always use lukewarm water and only mild pet shampoos - we use my own Martha Stewart shampoos and conditioners from my collection on Amazon.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
Empress Qin is ready for a good summertime bath. Here she is in the back of my Polaris Ranger. Everyone at the farm loves our fleet of Polaris vehicles. They’re extremely efficient, easy-to-drive, and can go where other vehicles cannot.
The Chows are getting washed in the stable. This shower stall is located at one end. It is a large stall with padded lower walls for animal safety. The faucets are housed in a cabinet on the right to keep them out of the way. The shower stall is also equipped with heaters suspended from the ceiling if needed. The boom sprayer is very flexible and can swivel around easily.
My line of shampoos and conditioners are all-natural, hypoallergenic and gentle enough for regular bathing. The formulas are also paraben and sulfate-free. My moisturizing shampoo and conditioner cleanse and intensely moisturize the dog’s skin and coat. When bathing a dog, it’s essential to use products made especially for dogs because of the differences in pH balance.
Han is first – once he feels the lukewarm water, Han starts to relax. Han is four-years-old and such a good boy.
My dogs are very accustomed to being bathed. They’ve had many baths, but always keep an eye on any dog who is getting washed – just in case they want to make a quick move.
Apply the shampoo from the back of the ears to the tail and always be very careful around the face, ears, and eyes.
Carlos makes sure to apply shampoo to the dog’s stomach as well. My shampoo formulas are all great for pets with sensitive skin.
After applying the shampoo and letting it soak into the coat a few minutes, Carlos rinses well with lukewarm water. It is very important to get all the shampoo out – a rule of thumb is to keep rinsing until there are no visible bubbles on the coat – and then rinse a little more. Next, Carlos also applies conditioner and then rinses Han thoroughly again.
Qin is a champion show dog, so she is also very used to getting bathed and groomed. My Qin is so beautiful. Here, Carlos pours a small amount of shampoo to Qin’s coat – it lathers pretty quickly.
Carlos wears a full rain suit and boots, so he doesn’t get wet. Here he is stopping for a quick photo with Qin. Carlos shampoos Qin’s entire coat from head to tail.
Carlos scrubs carefully to soap every part of Qin’s body.
Carlos also makes sure to clean the feet, legs and underneath where dirt can accumulate. He talks to her as he is scrubbing. Qin is a good girl and stays very still for the entire process.
After soaping and rinsing, Carlos applies the conditioner and brushes Qin while it is absorbed into the coat.
Then she is rinsed thoroughly once again, making sure there is no shampoo or conditioner left on the coat at all – the water needs to penetrate all the layers of the dog’s heavy coat.
Carlos dries Qin very, very well. Here she is getting wiped down with a large terry towel. This is a good time to have the dog shake the water off. Train the dog to shake on command, so no one gets wet in the process.
The coat must be dried thoroughly. Carlos uses a professional pet hair dryer to blow the coat. Drying completely is crucial. Otherwise, the hair closest to the skin will pack down, retain dirt and moisture, and cause skin irritations.
The benefit of using a hair dryer specifically for pets is that they’re not really drying the dog by heat so much as blasting the water out of the fur. These powerful dryers also blow loose fur from their undercoat which means less shedding later.
Carlos dries the feet thoroughly, including in between the dog’s pads. If one chooses to use a hair dryer for humans, always put it to the no-heat setting. Never use high heat on a dog’s coat. Dogs are much more sensitive to external heat than humans are and have a far more difficult time dissipating heat.
Here’s Qin after she’s dry and well brushed. She looks great. There are two types of coat on a Chow Chow – rough and smooth. Both are double-coated. Qin is a rough-coated Chow. The outer coat is abundant, dense, and straight. The undercoat is soft and woolly. Chows should be sturdy and squarely built. Its body should be compact, and heavy-boned – Qin has a perfect body.
Here’s Han getting dried and brushed. I think Han enjoys his “spa” treatments.
According to the breed standard, Chows must have a lovely thick mane, with small rounded ears, giving it the appearance of a lion when all grown up. Han is a handsome boy.
All clean and ready to go! Once they’re done, the Chows are driven back up to my Winter House in my Polaris. Next for a bath… my Frenchies.
Maintaining a healthy landscape sometimes means cutting down trees.
I always feel badly when trees are cut down. Trees are extremely important to our environment - they are the world’s single largest source of breathable oxygen, they absorb carbon dioxide and potentially harmful gasses, and they create an ecosystem to provide needed habitat and food for birds and other animals. However, trees do not live forever, and occasionally they need to be removed. Last week, one of my American Beech trees lost some branches in a storm, but this tree was also sick and dying of disease, so it had to come down.
Here are some photos - enjoy.
The American beech tree is considered both a shade tree and an ornamental tree. They can grow to a height of 50 to 70 feet and a spread of around 40 feet at maturity. This American beech tree, located in my American beech tree grove near my Boxwood Allee, has not been looking good for some time. It is has been suffering from the beech leaf disease that is spreading rapidly through the Northeast killing both mature American beeches and saplings. Look how bare it is – healthy beech trees would be filled with leaves this time of year.
A few of the branches were also damaged in a recent storm, so I instructed my outdoor grounds crew to take the entire tree down.
Pasang is our resident arborist. He is very strong and very skilled at taking down many of the smaller trees around the farm. Here, he begins with some of the smaller branches closer to the ground.
As all the branches are cut, they are neatly placed in piles, so they are easy to remove later.
Pasang then starts on some of the higher branches – always securing himself to the tree with the proper safety equipment.
Each long section of tree is cut by chainsaw. This tree grows at a slow to medium rate, with height increases of anywhere from less than a foot to about 24-inches per year.
And one by one, the branches fall to the ground.
Pasang stops for a quick photo. It’s a warm day at the farm, but we’ve made it through last week’s heat wave. Temperatures this week are only expected in the 80s.
Here, one can see what the leaf disease does to the leaves. It causes parts of leaves to turn leathery and withered and then kills a tree within six to 10 years.
In the light, the leaves also show bands – a clear sign of the beech leaf disease. An invasive nematode is believed to be responsible for this disease. The microscopic worms are present in the leaves and buds of infected beech trees.
The bark of the American beech is gray and mostly smooth. American beech is often found on moist slopes, in ravines, and atop moist hammocks.
Here is a pile of thicker branches waiting to be discarded. Because the tree is diseased, we cannot save any of the cut lumber – the entire tree will be thrown away.
Here’s a pile of smaller branches also neatly piled nearby.
Pasang works one section at a time, working his way from the highest point cutting branches and carefully moving down to the ground.
Here he is close to the base of the tree. Almost all the upper branches are now cut off.
Here is a look at the wood of the tree. Beech is a hard, strong, and close-grained wood.
Pasang cuts some of the fallen branches into smaller, manageable pieces. He is using his favorite tool – a STIHL in-tree gas-powered chainsaw. It is lightweight and easy to use when up in the trees.
And here is the beech tree once it has been emptied of all its top branches – now only the trunk remains.
Here is the site after the trunk is cut down. It is always sad to see trees go, but this tree was in poor condition and would have likely succumbed to the disease. It had to come down.
This remaining stump and the roots will also be removed, so a new tree can be planted in its place.
My outdoor grounds crew foreman, Chhiring, hauls some of the tree branches away to be discarded.
Thanks Pasang for taking down the tree. Pasang takes each section to its designated pile. Another big outdoor project done and checked off our list.
My handsome Fell Pony, Banchunch, is enjoying his new shoes.
All my horses get new shoes every four to six weeks. Made of metal or sometimes rubber or other materials, horseshoes are designed to protect the horse’s hooves from wear. Every shoe must be fitted properly in order to prevent mobility issues from developing. The horseshoes usually remain on the animal's hooves until the farrier returns to change them, but occasionally a horse will throw a shoe during a ride or just out in the paddock. That's exactly what happened to Banchunch - he threw one of his front shoes, so we called in the farrier, Marc Hill, to come for a visit.
Enjoy these photos.
A farrier always has his or her box of important tools. When we see this in the stable, we know our farrier is not far away. Among the implements needed to change horseshoes are the pullers, a clinch cutter, a brush, and a rasp.
Banchunch threw a shoe the night before while out in the pasture. When this happens it’s important to call in the farrier to replace it quickly. Here’s Banchunch waiting for the farrier, Marc Hill, to start the process.
Banchunch has sensitive hooves, so he wears glue-on shoes. Here, Marc uses old tube socks to protect the feathering on his legs from getting any glue on them. The hoof on left is missing a shoe.
Next, Marc uses a rasp, or a horse-sized file, to flatten and level the hoof and remove any uneven spots. Hooves grow continuously, so filing the surface when re-shoeing is important for maintaining the horse’s foot balance and gait.
This is a hoof buffer attachment for a drill. It quickly removes any marks, rings, or gouges on the hoof wall and helps to prep the hoof for the glue-on shoe.
Rubber glue-on horseshoes absorb shock and vibration. They are applied with a two-part epoxy adhesive that is made specifically for the equine foot.
A well-fitted horseshoe should align well with the edge of the hoof. Marc pulls one out to try on Banchunch.
Marc places the new shoe under Banchunch’s foot and assesses where adjustments are needed.
These shoes are pretty flexible and easy to shape for a proper fit.
The hoof must be perfectly smooth for the adhesive to work, so Marc goes over the hoof again with a sanding block to create a clean gluing surface.
My donkeys are so curious. Clive and Truman “TJ” Junior turn their heads to see what all the commotion is about. Most donkeys do not wear shoes, but they do need their hooves trimmed and filed regularly.
Once the shoe is put on, Marc picks the hoof up and wraps it with plastic stretch wrap so the new shoe is tight against the hoof wall.
The wrap holds the shoe in place while the glue is curing. It doesn’t take long for the adhesive to start setting – the wrap is removed after about 10 to 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, Banchunch’s other front hoof is lifted onto a hoof jack, so Marc can remove the other shoe.
Then he cleans the bottom of the hoof and removes any debris. Downward strokes from heel to toe are always recommended. Marc is careful around the frog, the triangular portion in the middle of the hoof, which is very sensitive.
Here, Banchunch’s left foot is wrapped and the right is unwrapped and ready for any touch-ups.
Marc traces the edges of the shoe with more glue to help seal the shoe rims in place.
Marc adds a bit more glue on the other hoof. The glue is made using some of the same additives as dental adhesives for humans.
And that’s it – Banchunch is all done. New shoes that will last another six weeks.
The shoes still need a little more time to set, so Banchunch is secured for a good grooming.
Once done, my darling Fell pony is now ready for a good rest. See you soon, my handsome Banchunch.
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