Here in Bedford, New York, it's going to be another hot, humid, dry weekend with temperatures in the 90s. Despite the uncomfortable summer weather, everyone is doing what they can to maintain the many gardens, groves, allées, and espaliers.
This time of year, everyone is weeding, watering, and pruning. When it comes to pruning, there are different strategies for different times of the year, but overall the goals are the same - to control the shape, to keep bushes and trees fresh and open, and to allow for better air circulation through the center of the specimen. My outdoor grounds crew has already pruned the sculpted hornbeam hedges near my main greenhouse and Winter House as well as the large European beech hedge surrounding my pool. Next, the team tackled the apple espaliers and lilac standards behind my long carport.
Enjoy these photos. And be sure to check out my TikTok @MarthaStewart to see me pruning the Asian pear espalier by my stable!
When I first moved to Bedford, I found a perfect location to plant a little orchard of espalier apple trees – this space behind my long carport not far from my Winter House. Espalier refers to an ancient technique, resulting in trees that grow flat, either against a wall, or along a wire-strung framework.
These espalier apples have done wonderfully here. They’re supported on wire attached to strong antique granite posts from China originally used as grape supports. There are four rows of espaliered apples.
Here are some of the many apples already growing. The apple tree is a deciduous tree in the rose family best known for its sweet, pomaceous fruit, the apple. I have many different varieties growing at my farm. During a good apple season, my granddaughter Jude and I make lots and lots of cider.
The leaves of apple trees are ovate and dark green with asymmetrical leaf bases. The leaf margins are curved and serrated.
Here’s Phurba working from the top – one can see all the new growth that needs trimming.
When he prunes, Phurba cuts branches at a 45 to 60 degree angle. He is also using pruners for this job. I always prefer hand tools that will give my trees a more natural appearance and shape. Every gardener and member of my outdoor grounds crew has a pair.
Chhiring works from the ground – it’s very hot out, so an umbrella provides some good shade. Pruning encourages the tree to grow fruiting spurs by eliminating competing suckers and unproductive wood.
As with any pruning project, it’s important to cut the three “Ds” – dead, diseased, and damaged branches. He also cuts any suckers which helps to keep the tree healthy and directs energy to the branches with fruiting buds.
The final cut on each unwanted bough needs to be alongside the “branch collar”, where the branch intersects with another. Growth cells concentrate in these nodes, causing fast bark regrowth which seals the cuts.
The job takes a couple days to complete, but it is done carefully and thoughtfully. Look at all the cut branches from just one row of dwarf apple trees.
Here are more apples growing – I am hoping for a bountiful fruit season this fall.
Chhiring uses my Stainless Steel Multi-Purpose Folding Pruning Saw available at Martha.com. The 8-inch blade, crafted from Japanese stainless steel, features a strong cross-cutting design for sawing in both directions. I always make sure my crew gets to use and test the products I design.
Here, Chhiring cuts branches that are rubbing or crisscrossing each other, preventing any healthy new growth. Basically, the goal is to create a tree with well spaced lateral branches. Any branches which interfere with the tree’s shape or create a dense framework should be removed.
Chhiring also focuses on removing crowded branches to help let in light and promote good air circulation.
From the carriage road, one can see the pruned trees in the front and the area still to be pruned in the back. My long carport is behind the espaliered apple trees. I hang a series of bird feeders along this side of the carport for all the visiting birds – about 125 different species of birds visit my feeders.
There is a lot of pruning to do on these trees – they are healthy and have produced a lot of growth in the last six months. Phurba works from the ground to get under a bit of shade. This day’s temperatures hit 94-degrees Fahrenheit.
By this day’s end, every row is cut just right – here’s a view from the top. I am so proud of how productive these trees are – in part because of the excellent maintenance care we give them.
And here’s a view from the side. It looks much better now after pruning.
These are the leaves of my ‘Miss Kim’ lilac standards. Lilac leaves feature smooth, hairless, heart-shaped leaves.
In front of the apple espalier, I have several ‘Miss Kim’ lilac standards lining the edge of the carriage road. Phurba did a great job pruning these also. ‘Miss Kim’ is one of the first dwarf cultivars. It was originated from seeds imported from South Korea. In spring, these trees feature long panicles of sweetly scented lavender blooms that burst from purple buds. I am so glad the gardens are looking beautiful this year – everyone is working hard. Now, if we could just get some more rain!!
What projects are on your "to-do" list this weekend? Here at my Bedford, New York farm, we always have a long list of projects to complete - among them, putting shelves up on a bare wall of my guest house studio prep kitchen.
Mounted shelves free up needed space in any room. Since shelves are intended to bear weight, it's crucial they be installed correctly. One must take the time to locate the wall’s studs and to fasten the shelves securely to supportive brackets.
Here are some photos and helpful tips for getting the job done.
As part of the set-up in my guest house studio prep kitchen, it was important to ensure there was enough storage space to accommodate all the necessary equipment – all the many tools, supplies and table top appliances. My property manager, Doug White, is a very skilled carpenter. I asked him to make shelves to fit a space and the above bare wall in one corner of the kitchen. Here are the shelves ready to be installed.
These brackets are from one of my previous home collections. I knew they would be perfect for the above counter shelf.
I instruct everyone on my crew to always have all the right tools for the right jobs. Doug gathers all the supplies he needs before starting the project.
The first step is to find the wall studs. Nowadays, one can use a stud finder to locate the wall studs. These handy tools are available from hardware stores and home improvement centers. Dough holds the stud finder flat against the wall and slowly slides the tool until it beeps and flashes – this means it’s detected a stud underneath. Most wall studs are spaced 16 to 24 inches apart.
Using a pencil and tape measure, Doug makes a light mark where the shelf bracket screw should go.
Doug holds up one of the shelf’s mounting brackets to make sure it is at the desired height.
Doug then drills the two inch screw into the marked spot and then into the wall stud.
Because the bracket has a keyhole on the back for for the screw, Doug avoids over-tightening it. Instead, the screw should just be about an eighth of an inch from the wall.
Doug secures the bracket onto the wall – it is a perfect fit. If it wiggles slightly, tighten the screw just a bit and secure the bracket again until it is completely secure. He does the same for the other side.
Finally, the shelf is put in place on top of the brackets and then checked for level. It is very straight and level.
These shelf brackets are so handsome – they look wonderful in this location.
To secure it even more, Doug places two screws through the shelf from the top and into the brackets.
Here’s Doug next to the new shelf.
Just underneath the counter, Doug prepares battens for two more shelves. Here he is drilling pilot holes where they will be fastened to the wall.
A pilot hole is a small hole drilled as a guide for the insertion of a nail or screw.
For one side, which is a metal cabinet, Doug uses self-drilling screws which can go through the metal without needed a separate drilling step.
Here is the self-drilling screw next to a wood screw. One can see how the base of the screw has the drill bit shaped point.
Doug fastens the self-drilling screw through the batten to secure it to the metal cabinetry behind it.
He fastens two other battens on the other side with regular screws into the wall studs.
Lastly, Doug checks for level and plumb.
And the shelves are placed into the space – they’re also a perfect fit.
Here’s the above counter shelf which also looks great. It holds and stores our often used appliances nearby without using up needed work space below. This job took less than an hour to complete and will serve years of good use. What home projects are you tackling this weekend? Please share them with me in the comments section. I love hearing from all of you.
The flower garden beds here at my Bedford, New York farm abound with gorgeous, bright and fragrant lilies.
Lilium is a genus of herbaceous flowering plants that grow from bulbs, all with large prominent flowers. The beautiful blooms can be enjoyed as cut flowers in an arrangement or growing in the garden - some at two feet, and others as tall as eight feet. I love lilies, and have been growing them for years - Asiatic, Martagon, Candidum, American, Longiflorum, Trumpet and Aurelian, Oriental, and various interdivisional hybrids.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
Many of my lilies are planted in my large flower cutting garden just behind my main greenhouse. I also have lilies growing along the winding pergola, outside my Winter House kitchen, in the sunken garden behind my Summer House, and in the formal garden outside the front of the greenhouse. Lilium is a genus of herbaceous flowering plants grown for their very showy, often fragrant flowers.
Lily flowers are large and come in a range of colors including yellows, whites, pinks, reds, and purples. They may be planted in early spring or fall. Both planting times will give flowers in mid to late summer. This Turk’s cap-type lily has white blooms with raised, dark red spots and warm yellow-orange centers.
Lilies are native to temperate areas of the Northern Hemisphere.
The true lilies are erect plants with leafy stems, scaly bulbs, usually narrow leaves, and solitary or clustered flowers.
The lily has a diversity of symbolism throughout the world. In fact, different colored lilies represent different things. While the white lily represents purity, the spotted tiger lily represents pride or confidence. In Japan and China, lilies are a traditional symbol of good luck, whereas Greek lore associates the flower with motherhood. These bright white blooms marked with soft yellow centers are so pretty en masse.
Here’s a beautiful orange lily growing in my flower garden. Lilies like to have their “head in the sun, feet in the shade,” and should be planted where they can get at least six hours of full sun per day.
It’s important for their foliage to be exposed to plenty of light – and not be shaded by other plants.
Over time, most lilies will multiply and the plants will grow into large clumps with many stems, but don’t worry they don’t mind being crowded.
Lily flowers consist of six petal-like segments, which may form the shape of a trumpet, with a more or less elongated tube. The segments may also be reflexed to form a turban shape, or they may be less strongly reflexed and form an open cup or bowl shape.
When it comes to water, lilies prefer moist soil but not wet feet. Choose a well-drained site, preferably not too dry.
When cutting flowers, the best time to do it is early in the morning before the sun and wind have a chance to dry the flowers. One can also cut late in the evening after they are rehydrated.
This one has yet to open.
Rose lilies are lush, double-flowered, gorgeous blooms. Their layered blooms are pollen-free and their aroma is pleasantly light.
And before bringing them indoors, be sure to gently pull those anthers off of each flower. Pollen is notorious for staining flesh and fabric. Removing the anthers prevents any pollen from getting on the flower petals, which can eat away at the delicate flower parts and shorten the life of the blooms.
When handling lilies, it’s a good idea to wear gloves and clothes you don’t mind getting dirty. If you happen to get a pollen stain on your clothing, do not rub! Instead, reach for a roll of tape and use the sticky side to gently dab the area – the particles will adhere to the tape.
Lilies have one of the longest in-vase lifespans of any cut bloom and the flowers will continue to mature after they’ve been cut.
The cultivation of lilies dates back to 1500 B.C. Many of the bright colors and forms of lilies were found on botanical expeditions during the 1800s in Asia. The Chinese and Japanese lily species were exported to Europe and hybridized to create new varieties that are popular today as cut flowers and as garden plants.
Many lilies smell stronger at night. This is because during the reproduction of lilies, pollen has to get inside the pistil, which usually happens at night and as an immediate response, the fragrance is released.
As the blossoms begin to fade, snip them off to keep the plants looking neat. When all the flowers are spent, remove the entire cluster, but leave the rest of the stem in place. Allow the stem and the leaves to continue growing until they turn yellow in late summer or fall. Then the stems can be cut back to within a couple inches of the soil surface.
These lilies will continue blooming through mid-August – I am looking forward to enjoying many lily arrangements in the weeks ahead. What are your favorite lilies? Share your comments with me below.
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