Temperatures here in the Northeast are expected to reach only 30-degrees Fahrenheit today, but rise to the mid-40s by week's end, hopefully melting a good portion of the snow from the year's first nor'easter.
This latest storm dropped about 10-inches of white powder over my Bedford, New York farm with snow drifts as high as two-and-a-half feet. Officials called it a “bomb cyclone” which occurs when air pressure drops and the storm rapidly intensifies. This one strengthened very quickly, bringing driving snow, punishing winds, and whiteout conditions as it moved up the east coast. The winter weather system crippled much of the region, but it left a beautiful coating of white across the landscape.
Enjoy these photos.
Earlier in the day before the storm was very gray with little wind. Flurries started mid-morning, then picked up later that night. Here, above the donkey paddock is the sun covered by the winter clouds.
Here’s a view across one of my paddocks and the stand of great eastern white pine trees, Pinus strobus, on the right. White pines are the tallest trees in eastern North America.
The snow did not seem to start accumulating until late afternoon. Here, the tops of the chicken coops have a light dusting of snow.
We already had several inches of snow leftover from the last storm. The front of my stable is always shoveled first, so my horses have a clear path from the pastures to the stalls.
This photo was taken the next day, after the snow had already been cleared at least once. By this time, strong winds were causing snow drifts to form around all the buildings.
This snow was very light and powdery. Light snow forms when all layers of the atmosphere are below freezing. Because the air is cold, all the way down to the surface, snowflakes don’t melt. It was about 25-degrees Fahrenheit all day.
Here, one can see the snow falling – but this light and powdery snow is useless for snowballs, it’s just too cold.
Here is the Linden Allee just beyond the stable. The linden tree, Tilia, is also referred to as basswood or lime, though it is not related at all to the lime fruit. They are straight stemmed trees with smooth bark. The gravel covered carriage road below is now completely coated in white powder.
This is the carriage road to my tennis court. Along both sides of the road we planted ‘Marley’s Pink Parasol’ Japanese Snowbell trees and a collection of Styrax ‘Evening Light’ trees. They are all growing very nicely. The dark evergreens in the distance look so pretty covered in snow.
I am glad all my precious tropical plants are safe inside their heated hoop houses. This one stores my citrus collection – lemon trees, lime trees, cumquat, calamondin, and orange trees – all growing so wonderfully here at the farm.
Here is my newly organized stone yard – also covered in white. This is where extra inventory of the many types of stones used at the farm are kept – slate shingles, marble flooring, granite posts, etc.
In my herbaceous peony bed, one can see the ripple-like snow drifts against the burlap covered boxwood.
The large linden trees are part of an allee I planted several years ago. The specimens below are all European beech trees, Fagus sylvatica, or the common beech – they hold tight to their leaves.
Here is the carriage road to the woodlands, almost unrecognizable except for the wooden stakes marking its edges.
Tucked away between the Equipment Barn and a grove of weeping willows is my pinetum. It includes pines, spruces, and firs, as well as other evergreens.
These stakes mark my catch basins. We paint the tips black to differentiate them from the road stakes. And we mark them, so they can be found quickly and, if needed, the side openings can be cleared.
This is the sunken garden behind my Summer House – the footpath covered in white, but all the boxwood hedges protected with galvanized steel frames and burlap.
And can you guess where this is? It is actually the terrace parterre just outside my Winter House. The snow collected more than two feet high in between the covered boxwood shrubs. Fortunately, despite the gusty winds, this storm did not cause any serious damage at the farm.
Here are two giant evergreens outside my Tenant House. Thankfully, they stood strong and remained intact during the storm.
During a late afternoon tour of the property, one of the members of my security team made hearts in the snow – a little whimsy during a storm. Groundhog Day is a couple days away – that popular tradition derived from the Pennsylvania Dutch superstition that if a groundhog emerging from its burrow on this day sees its shadow, it will retreat to its den and winter will persist for six more weeks; if it does not see its shadow, spring will arrive early. What’s your prediction for this season?
Whenever I am home, I love spending time in my greenhouse caring for my large collection of houseplants - among my favorites are my orchids.
Caring for orchids is a daunting process for many, but if one takes the time to understand their basic needs, and to use all the proper orchid care supplies, there’s no reason why these beautiful plants won’t continue to thrive and bloom. Not long ago, in between my busy day of Zoom meetings and phone calls, I had a little time to spend in my head-house to pot some of my newer specimens.
Here are some photos.
Right now, I have some of the most beautiful cut orchids displayed on the kitchen counter of my Winter House. I love seeing these gorgeous blooms, especially during the dreary days of the cold season.
Orchids grow on every continent except Antarctica. They are native to the tropical regions of Asia, Australia, the Himalayas, and the Philippines. The orchid forms one of the largest families in the plant kingdom, with more than 25,000 species worldwide.
The size of orchids depends on the species. They can be quite small or very large. However, every orchid flower is bilaterally symmetrical, which means it can be divided into two equal parts.
My growing orchid collection takes up space on long tables in the greenhouse. When blooming, visitors always stop by to take a look – this photo was taken last year. Paphiopedilum orchids are often called ‘lady slippers’ or ‘slipper orchids’ because of their unique pouch-like flowers.
Another big bloomer last year was this Phalaenopsis schilleriana ‘Wilson’. Phalaenopsis, the moth orchid, is perhaps the best orchid for growing in the home and is a favorite with greenhouse growers. Well-grown plants can flower often, sometimes with a few flowers throughout the year, though the main season is late winter into spring. The key to growing these plants is to keep the root systems strong and healthy. These plants have no bulbs or stems to store moisture and nutrients, so it is important to maintain their roots.
Oncidium orchids are popular indoor orchids because of their large sprays of flowers. A large, well-grown Oncidium will have several branched sprays of beautiful, colorful blooms.
Rule of thumb – orchids that receive a proper balance of light, humidity and temperature will have healthy bright green leaves. Too little light would make the leaves very dark. The size, shape, and texture of leaves depend on the habitat. Orchids that live in dry climate have large, thick leaves covered with wax, while species that live in warm and humid areas have thin, elongated leaves. And certain species of orchids do not have leaves at all.
This is one of my newer specimens. Whenever possible, I love working in the head-house and tending to my plants. A head-house is an addition or section of the greenhouse that serves as the “work center.” Optimum temperatures for orchids in winter are 45 to 55-degrees Fahrenheit at night and 65 to 75-degrees Fahrenheit during the day. When plants are in bud, temperatures must be as constant as possible. I am fortunate to have greenhouses, where temperatures and humidity levels can be closely monitored.
When potting orchids, choose a pot that can accommodate two years of growth, or about two inches larger than the one before. Specialized orchid containers have holes all around the surface to increase the air circulation in the roots – these are the best.
Orchid Myst is a ready-to-use nutrient solution that replicates how an orchid receives fertilizer in the natural environment. It contains mineral and organic nutrients, marine plant extracts, humic acid, fulvic acid, and pure plant oils and acts as a fertilizer and growth enhancer, as well as a plant tonic.
Orchids don’t grow like other houseplants. Instead, they exist in a container of loose materials such as bark, charcoal, and moss.
At the bottom of this pot I placed some sphagnum moss. Sphagnum moss is a fine substrate. Its water retention ability makes it an excellent potting material for young orchids.
Then I put in a layer of a coarse orchid bark mix, which will allow air to circulate naturally around the roots of the orchid.
The specially formulated mix in Miracle-Gro Orchid Potting Mix Coarse Blend is blended specifically for epiphyte orchids, including Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Epidendrum, and Dendrobium. It includes Canadian sphagnum moss, moss chunks, charcoal orchid bark, and lava rock mix. Get a bag on Martha.com.
I place the orchid inside the pot to see if it is sitting properly – it should be at the same height as it was in the original container. If it is too high, I just take some of the medium out from underneath the plant.
Healthy orchid roots are firm to the touch and white to green in color.
I also used just a little floral wire to anchor this orchid securely to the pot.
Place bark mix around the roots and firm the bark down, making sure the orchid rhizome or crown of the plant is flush with the top of the bark. I like to also place a straight apple branch from my trees as a stake to keep the orchid from leaning. It can be secured to the stem, or stems, with natural, thin raffia.
Here is a closer look at the base of this orchid. Potting bark and other potting mediums need to be replaced every two years or so.
Lastly, a bit more sphagnum moss to top the bark. When watering, it should be thorough and the medium should be dry at least half way through before watering again.
Orchids are such gorgeous plants – the new ones will be added to my giant greenhouse collection of interesting plant specimens. I love getting rare and unusual orchids. I will be sure to share photos when more of them bloom in the coming weeks.
It will take time for my new Friesian horses, Hylke and Geert, to fully acclimate to life at my Bedford, New York farm - it's a different country with a different language, a different climate, and of course, different food and water, but so far these handsome steeds are doing excellently.
Hay is an important part of every horse's diet, and my Friesians, Fell pony, and donkeys depend on me to provide them with the best quality hay possible. When I moved here, I designated three separate areas as hayfields and planted them with a mixture of timothy, orchard grass, Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and clovers - all great for producing good quality hay. We cut and bale our hay in the summer and it lasts most of the year. I'm happy to report, both Hylke and Geert liked it right away - it's a great start to a smooth transition.
Enjoy these photos.
Hay is a harvested plant that’s dried and cured after being cut in the field at various times of its growth cycle. In most cases, hay is cut during the late bud or early bloom stage to maximize its nutritional value.
The outdoor grounds crew works hard to cut, ted, windrow, and then bale the hay in my fields. This photo was taken last summer – these are rows of hay ready to bale.
We have our own equipment here at the farm that allows us to do the entire process ourselves. It takes several days to complete, but I know the hay I grow is good quality, nutritious hay.
I am so proud of the hay we grow here at the farm. Each bale is about 15 by 18 by 40 inches large. The number of flakes in the bale is determined by a setting in the baler. Many balers are set for 10 to 12 flakes per bale. I have two hay trailers. Each one can hold about 150-bales.
This is a close up of the hay right after it is cut. Good quality fresh hay should be bright green in color with little fading.
After the hay is baled, it is stacked and stored in the hayloft above the stable.
In another area, any hay that is no longer suitable for the horses is separated. This hay is used as nest bedding for the geese and peahens, as insulation around my hoop houses, and to direct any water runoff on the carriage roads.
As needed, bales are brought down in batches and organized in a spare stall.
This is alfalfa – a perennial legume, grown in most regions of the United States for horses and other livestock. it tends to be more nutrient-dense than most grasses and contains more digestible energy, more crude protein and calcium, and fewer nonstructural carbohydrates such as sugars and starches. We give this to my horse, Rinze, the patriarch of my stable.
Above the alfalfa is our first cut – the one harvested first in the year from the field before it blooms. This cutting is good for horses. There is a lot of fiber, so it is nutritious, plus it is easy to eat because the stems are flexible and thin. The donkeys and Geert prefer this hay.
And then there’s second cut. Second cutting is more substantial, with more leaves and a sweet smell. This hay contains a lot of protein and fat, so it is excellent for active horses. Banchunch and the other horses love this hay best.
It is also crucial that we monitor the amount of hay the horses consume, so they don’t become overweight or develop digestion issues. My stable crew is very mindful of the horses’ hay intake. We use these galvanized wall mounted horse feeders from RAMM. Each one holds up to three flakes of hay.
Bond likes his hay wet, so we soak his hay for about 30-minutes and then let it drain completely before feeding. Soaking also cuts down on the amount of dust generated by the hay.
To help keep eating under control, we use hay nets specially designed to slow feed times, curb boredom, and simulate grazing. This large NibbleNet is for the donkeys. Each one holds a sizable amount of hay, but because the donkeys have to pull the hay out through the webbing, they won’t eat as fast, or as much.
A smaller one is used to give Rinze his additional treat of alfalfa.
Automatic waterers are in each stall, so my horses always have fresh, clean water.
Each horse also gets a salt lick which contains essential mineral nutrients of salt deposits, phosphorus, iron, zinc, and calcium. It also helps to trigger a thirst response, so the horses stay well hydrated.
Along with their nutritious hay, my horses are given a variety of other supplements with their meals. We use these stainless steel bowls to mix up each horse’s dose – each bowl is properly labeled, so there is no confusion which supplements go into what bowl. We also label them AM and PM, so it is clear which items are for morning and evening feedings.
To make the supplements more appealing, they are mixed with some of their favorite grains and then served. Here’s my stable manager, Helen Peparo, ready to place each bowl into its designated stall.
Hylke already knows when it’s feeding time – he is waiting at the paddock gate with anticipation – what a handsome boy.
Here are Fernando and Dolma walking Hylke and Geert back indoors for mealtime. These two are currently turned out in the pasture just across from the stable. Now that it is winter, I like the horses out during the day and inside at night.
And then it’s feeding time. Because horses have small stomachs relative to their size, they eat little and often. A horse needs food spread out, preferably in two to three feedings a day. I am so glad all my equids are happy and healthy.
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