It’s always so satisfying to check off time-consuming cleaning chores.
This week, as part of a Winter house project that involved replacing a carpet, moving furniture, and redecorating several rooms, my housekeepers took on the task of cleaning and polishing the brass. Brass is a strong, corrosion-resistant alloy made from a combination of zinc and copper. With its bright golden color, brass has long been used for home furnishings and decorative accents. Cleaning brass takes time and thoughtful effort, but now these pieces are shimmering once again.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
Whenever I clean anything in my sink, I always line it with a soft towel to protect the sink as well as the piece being cleaned.
I have long used Wright’s Copper and Brass Cleaning Cream. It comes in small and large sizes – both with application sponges.
Wright’s all-purpose cleaning creams come in a paste like form and is easy to apply with a sponge or soft rag.
After removing any dust, Carlos starts by gently rubbing small amounts of cream along the tarnished surface. Carlos wears rubber gloves to protect his hands from becoming black from the dirt and tarnish.
Carlos also applies cream in the crevices. Tarnish ranges in color from a light yellowy gold to almost black, depending on how long it has been allowed to develop. In addition to using soft sponges and rags, one can use cotton swabs or soft bristled toothbrushes to apply the cream to tight areas.
Once it is completely cleaned, all the cream is removed with tepid water. Carlos rinses it thoroughly to ensure no cream is left on the brass shell.
Then the piece is wiped thoroughly right away with a soft absorbent cloth to avoid any water marks. Enma and Carlos work as a very efficient team.
Droplets of water can get stuck in between the cracks, so always take time to dry every edge and corner.
Enma wipes it down several times until there is no trace of moisture.
Meanwhile, Carlos take on this large brass tray. First it is cleaned of any dust, and then Carlos applies a generous amount of the polishing cream.
Carlos rubs it over and over – notice how the dirt and tarnish come off. Whenever polishing metals, be sure you use a product that is specifically made for the type of metal being cleaned.
It’s looking much brighter and much shinier. Always avoid using highly abrasive scrubbing cloths, metal-bristled brushes, or steel wool; these will scratch the surface of the brass.
And then he wipes it clean and dry. Carlos makes sure to also rest the piece on a towel, so it is always stable and protected.
Here are two more brass shells getting cleaned. All my silver, copper and brass pieces are maintained regularly, so they are never too tarnished when cleaned.
Regular cleaning also helps to maintain a piece’s durability and preserves its natural patina.
Enma dries a weaved basket. This has a lot of crevices where water can linger. The key is to take the time to do it carefully and properly.
And here it shines so brightly after a good cleaning.
And then all the pieces are gathered on a table on my porch before they are once again displayed around my home. Cleaning and redecorating with pieces one already has can easily refresh a space and a room.
As a large farm and home owner not only must I look after all my animals and gardens, but I also have to maintain the safety and upkeep of every house and structure on the property.
I have several buildings here at Cantitoe Corners, and the one I use the most is called the Winter House where I live. This year, it was time to change and update the carpeting in some of the rooms, so I called on my friends at Westport Carpet and Rugs in Westport, Connecticut - they've been taking care of my carpeting needs for many years. The process was quick and everything was done neatly and efficiently.
Here are some photos.
The first room to be addressed is my Winter House Sunken Green Parlor. It is a large room, which I often use for entertaining. Recently, I noticed the carpeting was in need of replacing, so it was cleaned and emptied of all the furniture.
Here is a view from the other side. The life expectancy of a sisal rug depends on where it’s used and the carpet’s exposure to traffic, spills or damage.
The brass floor register grilles were also removed for the project.
The team from Westport Carpet & Rugs arrived right on time with padding and my new sisal carpets.
The padding was rolled out carefully over the floor. There are many types of carpet padding for different areas of the home. Carpet padding serves as the foundation for the carpet. It provides cushioning underfoot but also provides stability, insulation, and noise reduction. The best carpet padding will protect the backing on the bottom of the carpet and keep it from breaking down, thus prolonging the life of the carpet.
Here, Dave carefully cuts the padding to fit around the stairs into the parlor.
Because this room is large, two pieces of new padding are needed to secure the carpet. This padding is very durable and long lasting.
Tape is used to connect the two pieces together, but don’t worry, the tape never touches the floor.
Then the carpet is slowly rolled over the padding and the floor. Every effort is made to roll it out as straight as possible, so adjustments are minimal.
The cut outs for the fireplace surround are done on site. Dave measures and marks the strip to be cut.
And then uses a very sharp knife to cut through the sisal precisely.
He does the same for the area around the stairs.
And uses a scrap piece of carpeting underneath, so the floor is completely protected.
Because the carpet is cut slightly smaller than the space to expose the wood floors, the area between the carpet edges and the walls must be measured several times. This carpet is about four-and-a-half inches from the wall along every side.
Any padding excess is also removed carefully with a sharp knife.
This is a carpet edge serger machine, or carpet-binding machine. It is used to quickly and easily sew a border around the perimeter of a carpet.
The matching colored yarns are placed on spools and the machine wraps the threads over the edges.
The machine is equipped with little wheels so Donald can be pull it along as it surges, making a very neat edge.
Here is a finished serged edge. The serged corners and edges look neat and tidy.
Pieces are cut to accommodate the registers.
And then the brass grilles are returned – no screws needed.
Here is an area done around the stairs.
Although it is exactly the same as the previous rug, once it is down it totally freshens the space and gives it a nice, clean look. Now to put back the furniture.
Outdoor winter chores continue at my farm with the grooming of six standard weeping hornbeams.
Even though there's still snow on the ground, the mild weather is allowing us to get lots of outdoor work completed. The team from The Arborist, Inc. in nearby Bedford Hills, New York took on the task of lightly pruning and grooming my rare weeping hornbeams, Carpinus betulus 'pendula,' that grow on one side of my "party lawn." I keep a close eye on my hornbeams - it’s crucial that they be pruned regularly, so they never look too overgrown and unruly.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
In the area between my orchard and my long pergola are six matched standard weeping hornbeams, Carpinus betulus ‘Pendula’. These are very precious trees and I am so happy they continue to grow well here.
Here they are lush green with foliage in summer. Carpinus betulus ‘Pendula’ is a dense tree with a strong center, a shapely form and gracefully arching branches.
The leaves are a vibrant green color in the spring and summer. Each leaf has a sharply double serrated edge and a top that tapers to a point.
These are the seed catkins hanging from the branches, holding about 10 to 30 seeds each.
Because they are deciduous, they lose their leaves in winter, leaving them bare – except for these few leaves which have held strong through the season.
Healthy buds can be see on on the branches now.
I asked these expert pruners to do some light grooming on these trees to keep them looking their best.
The tree experts at The Arborist specialize in pruning and have done excellent work on many of my trees already.
Ray starts from the bottom, removing any branches that are touching the wood fence nearby.
The team also focuses on the Ds of pruning – removing any dead, diseased, damaged, defective, or deranged branches.
They cut branches that are rubbing or crisscrossing each other, preventing any healthy new growth. Basically, the goal is to create a tree with well spaced lateral branches. Any branches which interfere with the tree’s shape or create a dense framework should be removed. Hornbeams are very dependable cultivars and don’t need much pruning except when necessary for shaping or for removing dieback.
Cuts are always made clean and should be made fairly flush to the branch from which it grew. The idea is to leave slight stubs. By removing any more, the remaining branch has too much of an opening for disease to enter.
And cuts should be clean and straight – something that can only be done with good, sharp tools.
With all the snow on the ground, it is also necessary to shovel a path, so the crew can work on each tree and safely set up their ladders. We’ve had a very snowy season.
While Ray works from the ground…
… Rudy attaches an extension to his pole saw, so he can work from the top.
The extensions allow them to reach high branches from below.
Ray periodically steps back to look at the work done from afar. He assesses where trimming is still needed to create the best shape.
Sometimes a ladder is still necessary. Here, Ray reaches branches at the very top center of the tree.
And whenever someone is on the ladder, someone else is at its base ensuring the ladder is stable and safe.
Branches are neatly gathered and piled so they can be easily transported to the wood chipper.
Under ideal conditions, weeping hornbeams can live up to 120-years or more. I am so pleased these trees are thriving here at my farm – they are among my favorites.