El Mercado in San Miguel de Allende
If you’ve been following my blog, you know that I recently traveled to San Miguel de Allende, an exceptionally beautiful colonial city nestled in the central highlands of Mexico. I was so impressed with the magnificent architecture found there and with the wealth of Spanish colonial history. Whenever I travel to new destinations, I like to experience as much of the local flavor, as possible. I try and always make a point of visiting some of the local markets, where you find the true heart and soul of a country. For Mexicans, el mercado is essential to living and most of what they eat is purchased there. I hope you enjoy these photos of the mercado and a few other places I went to while in San Miguel de Allende.
1 Of course, I wanted to tour the local market. Meredith and Tom Brokaw went with me and they loved it, too.
2 In the market, there are great fruits and vegetables sold fresh daily. These are nopales, or prickly pear cactus leaves, which have been a staple of the Mexican and Central American diet for thousands of years.
3 A closeup of the nopales leaves - The spines and eyes need to be cut out before preparation.
4 This woman spends her day trimming the needles off nopales.
5 And this woman was sipping a favorite drink of juiced nopales leaves.
6 Fragrant and yummy guavas were everywhere in the market.
7 There were also bright flowers in abundance and were very inexpensive.
8 Pretty and very fragrant roses
9 These ladies make cheerful and very affordable flower arrangements.
10 We came upon some pork frying - pork rind, I think.
11 This is a kind of cooked salsa of onions and peppers.
12 Mounds of white onions in all sizes
13 All of the food stalls in the market were very neat and clean.
14 This is some sort of aloe or agave, which looked very much like an artichoke.
15 This gentleman was knitting faster than most women I have seen.
16 Bright and cheerful hand painted pottery for the homes in San Miguel de Allende
17 Ladies slicing and dicing vegetables for fresh salsa
18 An automated tortilla factory
19 The smell of corn roasting over wood coals was wafting in the air.
20 Roasted corn stacked for sale - a little squeeze of fresh lime would be yum!
21 Fresh garbanzo beans - a very nutritious snack
22 Jicama is quite popular in Mexican cuisine. It has a unique flavor that lends itself well to salads, salsas, and vegetable platters.
23 These are jicama 'pops' dusted with chili powder.
24 There was so much freshly cut up fruit.
25 These are roasted poblano peppers filled with local white cheese and dusted with flour.
26 The peppers are then dipped in frothy beaten eggs.
27 They are fried on one side until golden and then turned over.
28 The peppers are drained and are so very, very good.
29 Also fried are potato pancakes, which are served with fresh crab and salsas.
30 Beans, corn, onions, and peppers cooked in cream - also very, very good
31 There were even birds for sale in the market.
32 And attractive beaded bracelets
33 These fabrics are typical Mexican applique work.
34 La Aurora was my favorite shopping area - so many antiques and art galleries.
35 Rachel Horn designs and fabricates lovely metal furniture. http://www.rachelhorn.com/
36 A detail of the metal day bed
37 I loved this candle holder - just like in Catholic churches.
38 Sunburst mirrors and great lanterns
39 Andrea Flores and Tom Horn are two other artisan designers.
40 I loved this stone metate, which was very worn down with use and age.
41 I really loved this green mercury ball, which I bought for Christmas. (not the stand)
42 I also loved these brass vases - probably from a church - I did not buy them.
43 Outside of La Aurora was a wonderful aloe/agave/cactus garden.
44 Back at Casa Cholla, where I was a guest, I visited the kitchen.
45 I found Modesta, the cook, busy there.
46 Modesta was preparing a fragrant and colorful rice.
47 The Mexican tiled pool at Casa Chollo
48 Hotel Matilda is a beautiful new hotel in San Miguel de Allende was celebrating its grand opening. http://www.hotelmatilda.com/enter.html
49 Every wall in Hotel Matilda is covered with contemporary art - very, very cool!
50 This is a great Spencer Tunik photograph of hundreds of nude men and women. http://www.newyorkdirectorofphotography.com/
51 This is the lovely outdoor dining area of the hotel with beautiful plantings and great lighting.
In Photo 24, I like the way the watermelon is sliced. I'll have to try it next time I have a watermelon.
And, in photo 44...is that a brick ceiling?
All the places and wares are so colorful.
Gloria G!!!
Posted by: Gloria | December 1st, 2010 at 12:21 am
What a fantastic and vibrant city! Such wonderful Markets! http://www.Themalemartha.com With such warm weather..the markets are a nice year round attraction, unlike Maine. With frigid temperatures we are again with out the vibrant lush flowers and vegatables of summer!!
Dan Viger
Hollis center, Maine.
Posted by: Daniel Viger | December 1st, 2010 at 12:21 am
I love your pictures!!! I'm from Mexico City and I plan to spend New Year in SMA.
Love my country but the most I love is the colorful and the cultural blend of Spanish and native Mexicans, that mix was huge and you can see in the colors, the architecture, the art crafts and obviously the food.
I'm a cultural mixed too, I'm part lebanese, part irish, part spaniard and of course part mexican!!!
You can know the origins of any town, city or country by their food.
I'm a chef and a culinary teacher here in Mexico and cultural embassies from Mexico in the world.
If you are there, you need to go the Ristorante D'Andrea it's in the outside of SMA, by far the best Italian Cuisine outside of Italy, and the old Hacienda where is located it's like an Italian Villa.
Thanks Martha to share a piece of Mexico!!!
Posted by: Arturo | December 1st, 2010 at 2:03 am
December is here and will be a month of much activity for many. Our grandson, Ethan did make it home for Thanksgiving so we had a few simple 'moments'- not the least of which was the wonderful Advent calendar pop up book of Tasha Tudors. Thanks for these colorful photos that once again make me realize that we can all find the heart and soul of our own country as it is right here, right now.
Posted by: ann | December 1st, 2010 at 7:47 am
Martha, thanks for sharing this blog.
Posted by: KLBrown | December 1st, 2010 at 10:55 am
Your fans might enjoy my recent book on the expatriate experience. It's called San Miguel de Allende: A Place in the Heart, and it's available at Amazon.com.
Posted by: John Scherber | December 1st, 2010 at 11:09 am
Hi Martha,
Very nice pictures – everything is so colorful and neat including the way they display the fruit. Mexican food is the best although I’m not real keen on anything real ‘hot’ but who doesn’t love a tortilla filled with something tasty. I eat them for breakfast with just butter sometimes. If I should ever get an opportunity to visit Mexico, I think San Miguel de Allende would be my choice destination and I would definitely want to visit El Mercado. I also love that kitchen at Casa Cholla and the tiled pool. Very beautiful! Trish
Posted by: Trish | December 1st, 2010 at 11:15 am
We visited SMA a few years ago, and I continue to hold the city in my heart. Trips to the beautiful adjacent cities, Dolores Hidalgo, etc. broaden the experience. Thank you.
Posted by: Judy | December 1st, 2010 at 11:26 am
Hi Martha, I have been following your wonderful blog from the beginning and I love every blog post that you share with us. This one certainly does show why you loved being in San Miguel de Allende. These photos not only show how beautiful this area is they also show how much fun you had visiting all the places you could. Your photos are absolutely stunning showing the beautiful colors, the happy workers, the delicious foods, the fantastic gardens, etc., etc., etc.! Once again, it makes me feel warm just seeing all parts of your fantastic trip. Sure do love your Hallmark Channel TV Shows. How fun to see Jackie Evancho yesterday-what a terrific kid she is! Waiting to see you on the Today show in about an hour. Have a great day! Jan
Posted by: Jan Erickson | December 1st, 2010 at 11:37 am
Martha! I'm so delighted you've discovered the beauty of central Meixco and San Miguel - one of my favorite places on earth. Next time try Casa Quetzal Hotel - my artist friend Cynthia Price is owner/manager and her artwork is luscious.
casaquetzalhotel.com
Posted by: annie | December 1st, 2010 at 12:58 pm
Martha Thanks for your great pics and comments on San Miguel. It is truly a magical place. That is why I bought a home there 6 years ago. It is so nice some positive news coming out of Mexico. Hope you can come back again soon. Am friends with the owners of the newly opened hotel Matilda. Can't wait to see it on my next trip down!
Posted by: BobG Chicago | December 1st, 2010 at 1:57 pm
As a former Manhattanite (35 years in midtown) who discovered San Miguel in 1993 and have not returned to the USA since Apr 25 1995, I can vouch for much of what Martha experienced. I actually live one-half block from the new Hotel Matilda.
The only problem I have with the pictures is that tourists, and Martha is obviously one, seldom realize that the poor people here are living hand to mouth and it is therefore customary to give a small propina (like a tip - maybe a few pesos or so) to the person who is being photographed.
I suspect that Martha studied her subject (San Miguel) enough to know that and did the customary thing.
Michael Paul Wein
Posted by: Michael P. Wein | December 1st, 2010 at 4:17 pm
I love the kitchen! And the pears. I love the juice it makes. Had fabulous prickly pear cocktail in Scottsdale, Arizona. http://www.theboulders.com/ Well, I gotta get me to Mexico! Thank Martha and gang for the inspiration.
Posted by: http://twitter.com/Geotravel | December 1st, 2010 at 4:24 pm
Check out this website Jetsetter.com for a wonderful deal on San Miguel ... if not going there...just look at the beautiful photos!!
http://www.jetsetter.com/sale/casasierranevada2/colonialsuite_casa?ep=120110&et=daily&oeid=120110A&ect=control&ept=sales-2&eca=sale-button
Posted by: Jane Warnock | December 1st, 2010 at 4:27 pm
...Iam so happy Martha for you. Great pictures end thanks for visit my Mexico..just at looking the pictures make me hungry.....thanks again
Posted by: Liliana | December 1st, 2010 at 4:36 pm
The bold use of colour in Latin American countries is so striking! There is such celebration and vibrancy in all those bursts of bright yellows, blues, reds and greens. I think we, in the north, should borrow more from that festive approach to living with colour.
Posted by: Andrew Ritchie | December 1st, 2010 at 5:31 pm
Thanks for sharing your photos! I just love the Mexican culture, friendly people, delicious foods/fresh seafood, vibrant/colorful pottery & fabrics, fun unexpected treasures from the markets, beautiful iron work, sunny beaches, and just the cozy romantic, charm of it all...
Posted by: Jill | December 1st, 2010 at 5:49 pm
So happy you came to visit our lovely San Miguel. There are many, like me, expats that live here and we adore our "village." It might be a fun segment for you to meet some of my friends to learn why we moved here and why we love it so much!
Judy
Posted by: Judy Teel | December 1st, 2010 at 5:58 pm
Such a wonderful market with beautiful everything! I also loved the cushions on the metal day bed.
An inspiring trip, i'm sure!
Posted by: sherey | December 1st, 2010 at 7:14 pm
As a 20-year resident of San Miguel I truly hope that you, Martha, and Tom, start talking to the rest of the media, not only our town (but preferable, I'm biased) but Mexico in general, the press north of the border is so derogatory and now you see how beautiful it is here. Bet you enjoyed the wonderful weather here now that you are back in the chilly and doubtless snow-filled north.
Posted by: Jennifer | December 1st, 2010 at 7:43 pm
I am so thrilled to hear that you visited San Miguel de Allende. Indeed, a magical little town. I moved here from Brooklyn, NY 5 years ago and started a bakery here- PANADERIA CASANOVA - and we've have your books and use insights from your website. I am proud to share who you are and your creative energy with the group of Mexican women who work as the bakers and pastry makers.
I hope you enjoyed our breads at the Hotel Matilda. I was home for the Thanksgiving holiday, so, unfortunately, I missed offering you more of our goodies.
To all your readers, come and visit San Miguel! It is one of the most welcoming and entertaining destinations. It's claimed to be the 4th best city to visit in Travel & Leisure this year- not bad, next to Florence and Bangkok!
Posted by: Alicia Wilson Rivero | December 1st, 2010 at 8:25 pm
Oh, how I wish I could eat a couple of those roasted poblano peppers. I'm imagining how much better they must be, than the "chile relleno" we've ordered in restaurants in San Diego, over the years. Sometimes they are wonderful but sometimes so spicy-hot that the flavor is lost.
Posted by: Judy Williams | December 1st, 2010 at 8:40 pm
Next time you come to San Miguel take a 45 minute drive to Mineral de Pozos for a touch more of authentic 'wild west' in an old goldmining town.
Posted by: Kelly | December 1st, 2010 at 9:17 pm
I almost tasted the potato pancake and wanted to take a dip in that pool! Love this post, so fun and colors so gorgeous.
Am so loving the "Martha Classics" They are such a great treat to watch. So happy to be seeing the Christmas segments. They are making some of us almost giddie.
Thank you Martha
Posted by: Becky | December 1st, 2010 at 11:39 pm
Martha, as a resident of San Miguel de Allende, I am grateful that you are sharing your experience and great photos in a positive way. You have been able to capture the charm and beauty of this magical, historic town. I hope it will intrigue and inspire people to come and see for themselves what San Miguel de Allende has to offer. Do come back again soon.
For you and your fans, visit our website http://www.vacation-homes-san-miguel.com
Posted by: Jennifer | December 2nd, 2010 at 1:22 am
Thanks Martha. What a treat! Absolutely inspiring.
Posted by: linda Cortez | December 2nd, 2010 at 10:53 am
I lived in San Miguel for six years. When I first arrived it was an cutting edge artists community for ex pats. When I left for health reasons in 2008 it had changed to a place where you could buy upscale furniture and imported gourmet foods. It did my heart good to see these photos of the things that made SM unique. Unlike a lot of beach towns on the west coast the mexican population is gracious and displays excellent manners. I miss my friends and the lifestyle. I will not be able to return until I receive the liver transplant I need, but until then, it touches me when someone else communicates the beauty and culture of a place I called home.
Posted by: Venae Warner | December 2nd, 2010 at 12:53 pm
I've lived in San Miguel de Allende for 4 years now with my Mexican husband. The pictures you posted are so classic and really capture the color, texture, and flavor of this magnificent town.
Martha, We appreciate that you visited here and blogged about it to give people an accurate impression of what Mexico really is: beautiful. We encourage your readers to travel here because it is safe despite what the media sometimes portrays.
Those of us who live here believe that anyone who visits San Miguel even once will never forget it and will dream of when they can return again...
Posted by: Christie Olvera | December 2nd, 2010 at 1:12 pm
Martha ~ We are so delighted that you visited our "magic town" of San Miguel de Allende, one of the most beautiful places on earth, where the weather is perfect, the people are friendly, and life is good. Thank you for blogging so positively about this wonderful place.
I heard you say recently that you were taking dance lessons at Arthur Murray. Did you know the only Arthur Murray Dance studio in Mexico is located right here in San Miguel de Allende? My daughter owns it. On your next visit you can take some of your lessons right here.
We hope you will come back soon to enjoy our lovely town.
Posted by: Mary Conaway | December 2nd, 2010 at 2:29 pm
Hi Martha: I love your show. San MIguel de Allende was very happy about your visit. I would have loved to run into you at the Mercado.
I decorated my private spa ~ retreat CASA MARINO for my cosmetic surgery patients with the lovely ceramics from this market. The colors are so vibrant. ALL of MEXICO is VIBRANT ! SUCH A GOOD CHOICE FOR YOU TO REPORT IN YOUR BLOG!
Posted by: Pat Marino | December 3rd, 2010 at 4:52 pm
My family has had a home in the center of San Miguel for over 36 years. I am happy to hear that you loved your visit. San Miguel is so removed from the border towns, I hope people start visiting my town soon. As an interior designer, photographer and cook, San Miguel is a treasure to me. I write a blog about San Miguel, my travels, cooking and fine dining.
http://www.robintalkscookstravels.blogspot.com
Posted by: Robin Mullen | December 4th, 2010 at 8:41 pm
I am glad you like "my" town. I have been living here for 15 years and love it. I am an artist and facilitate classes in Mixed Media painting, Paper Maché and Polymer Clay sculptures.
I hope that many people will read your Blog and will realize that San Miguel is a wonderful place and very safe. I hope that you will visit again sometimes!
Posted by: Ingalora Dwyer | December 5th, 2010 at 11:20 am
Hi Martha:
I´m delighted how you appreciate my country and one of the colonial jewels that SMA its
Thanks and Happy Holidays.
Posted by: Antonio Sánchez | December 6th, 2010 at 5:03 am
Dear Martha,
XOXOXO (Abrazos y Besos). Dario
I'm very honour with your visit to my "youger-years" fun city! I was born in Queretaro, very VERY close from SMA (San Miguel de Allende). I feel so proud of how much you got amuzed during this visit! Hoping it is NOT the only time we have you around. Also I love they way you capture the colours, smells and (wondering) flavors! For one, as mexican, sometimes we forgot to let us surprise about ALL the experiences that a mercado can provide in one visit.
Martha, take care and try to prepare an exquisite guacamole with tortilla chips or some sliced wathermelon, jicama and green melon plate!
Posted by: Dario Fimbres | December 6th, 2010 at 4:43 pm
Martha:
Es un gusto que publiques fotografías de San Miguel Allende, es un lugar pintoresco y típico mexicano. Me encantan las fotos del mercado con todas esas verduras, y frutas... siempre frescos.. los chiles poblanos de queso, es uno de mis platillos favoritos, al igual que el mole poblano... Gracias por visitar mi país y difundirlo por mediode tus fotografías...
Te saludo desde Monterrey, N. L., México.
Sandra Dzib
Posted by: Sandra | December 6th, 2010 at 7:11 pm
hi! Martha!
yOU FORGOT,THE MERCADO OF SAN JUAN DE DiOS IS A TIPICAL MARKET in san miguel de Allende , they sale many product`s whit the best prices in the regioòn is for local people , most tipical, clean, smell very well..
whwn you back I invite you for this market, okis
please write me if you back..
Posted by: Flor Godìnez | December 9th, 2010 at 12:06 am
Dear Martha,
I am so delighted you enjoyed my "adopted" city of San Miguel de Allende. Strolling through the Mercado is one of the true joys of my life as a professional chef (originally from The Hamptons) and restauranteur. I wish I was there with my partner Alberto Pacheco to give you a true culinary tour with recipes that use the exotic and unique fruits with Aztec origins. Let us be your guide on your next visit!
Fresh Herbs Always,
Chef Shari Alexander
Posted by: Shari Alexander | December 9th, 2010 at 2:22 pm
MARTHA , It looks like you have become our good -will ambassador for San Miguel de Allende; see the article in USA Today below MENTIONING YOU.
http://www.usatoday.com/travel/destinations/2010-12-09-san-miguel-mexico-retirement-homes_N.htm
PLEASE RETURN SOON. THANKS FOR THE BLOG INFORMATION AND THE REAL GOOD NEWS ABOUT VISITING MEXICO.
Posted by: Pat Marino | December 13th, 2010 at 1:08 pm
Hi Martha
so glad you enjoyed the beautiful culture filled san miguel de allende...I have been visiting here since 1994 with my mother and finally in 2005 I sold everything I owned in the USA and moved here permanently. I opened a private villa spa retreat for patients after cosmetic surgery Club Casa Marino with my mother and I love every colorful, picturesque opportunity of living here. The rhythm of life here allows you stop and have a coffee with a passing friend on the street and being 15 minutes late to my next appointment is worth the moment I had to catch up with a friend and share a coffee and know one is upset when you are 15 min. late. In the USA I have to make an appointment a week in advance to catch up with friends. The word lifestyle is really available here. Thanks for visiting our multi cultural paradise and hope to see you again soon.
Posted by: melinda marino | December 14th, 2010 at 2:21 am
Querida Martha,
En la fotografía #6, las frutas del Mercado que presentas son "GUAYABAS" y son una delicia, todo lo que en los Mercado Mexicanos encuentras son un regalo de la naturaleza. Te sugeriría que para enriquecer tus viajes através de México pudieras visitar OAXACA y PUEBLA, estos estados tienen MERCADOS que son maravillosos!!! Ven a México y come, come y come!!! Felíz 2011.
Posted by: Jan | January 5th, 2011 at 1:54 am